How to Paint: Silver Templars Space Marines for Warhammer 40k

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Hi everyone, if you've seen the last couple of videos you'll know this is the one that it's
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been leading to so I've had quite a few requests for this so here's my guide on how to paint
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Silver Templars Space Marines. Hey everyone, while I've got you I really want to know what sort of audience we've really got here
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on Fauxhammer in regard to painting. So in order to do that, if I can just take a quick poll, can you
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pop in the comments what sort of painter you're aiming to be? So are you aiming to be the next
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sort of golden demon winner, kind of like top heavy metal award-winning painter, or are you more
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of an army painter just looking for some more effective results to, you know, go beyond
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I've sprayed my blood angels red and they're done. So, you know, what sort of audience do we have
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here let me know this is all brand new on the video so just pop in the comments where do you
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think you are and what you're aiming to be on your painting journey right let's get into it so before
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we begin if you want to follow the game's workshop guide i highly recommend this book which was
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available from hash out as part of the warhammer conquest collection but i think you can pick it
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up on ebay for about a tenner even though we're not going to follow that today it's got some really
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useful tips like this page which shows you all the unique elements of the different units within
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your army. So start out as usual by priming your models. In this case, because we're painting them
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silver, we're going to use a black base coat. And then for the first layer we're going to put down
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it's this magnesium from Vallejo's Metal Color range. This goes on really easily, and the reason
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we've chose magnesium is it's got a very slight blue hue, which will contrast the warmer tones
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we're going to put into the shadows and recesses. So the next colour I'm going to use is this dark aluminium from the same metal colour range
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This is more neutral than the previous bluey silver that we had before and I'm just going to focus on things like the toes, the heads, the hands, the bits that stick out really to give them some highlight
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The difference between the colours isn't huge but if you look closely it is there and it'll matter later on
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and the next thing I'm going to do is paint the shoulder pads using this yellow ochre color
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now the good thing about these is the shoulder pads do come separate but if you've got a model
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where the shoulder pads are actually molded on just mask the model up because we're going to
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paint the edges black later anyway next up I'm going to use Pro Acryl's golden yellow and this
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is just do some highlights on the same shoulder pads as you can see here I've aligned the shoulder
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pads on this cork just so that they match up with the angle they'll be at on the model so I can
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highlight them easier. I was talking about masking before and that's what I'm doing here so I can
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paint up the power sword. I'm not going to cover that in detail in this video I've got a separate
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video on it so I'll put a link above please go and check that out if you want a guide on power swords
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So over to the painting desk and we're going to start off with some olive flesh and we're going to
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use this to paint the purity seals. This is a really quick and simple way of doing it and I'm
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doing this first because I'm going to do black next and I may as well paint the lines on them
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while I've got the black out. And then speaking of the black, I'm using coal black from Pro Acryl
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Use this to paint things like the backs of the knees, the insides of the elbows, the gun casing
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anywhere that's going to be black really. One standout feature of Silver Templars is the chest
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plate which is black so get a nice coat on that. What I love about the Pro Acryl black is it's not
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a true black so we can shade down with a wash later if we want to and get some more depth into
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black areas. Also don't forget the shoulder pad trims which I did forget and had to come
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back to later so a little bit of magic there for you in editing but this was actually done right at the end of the entire project This is also a really good time to get the eyes done and the writing on the purity seals which I know I said before was the reason I started with olive flesh
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but then I forgot. Next I'm taking this mahogany colour which is a lovely reddish brown similar to
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Rhinox Hide but the reason I tend to favour these pro-acryl colours is because they dry matte which
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I love and most of the time they can go over anything in one coat
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Next, I'm going to take some Screamer Pink and paint the Purity Seals, and this is to make them look a little bit of a different reddish colour
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to the knee pad we're going to do in a sec, and the pouches that are already a reddish brown
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And then for the rosary beads, I'm using Pro Acryl again, because, yeah, like I said before, it goes on in pretty much one coat
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if you get the consistency right. And this is speed painting. It's about getting effective results quick
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So this time, it's bright, warm grey, and just one coat of this will do
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and then for our last color which is going on the knee we're going to use burnt red
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the equivalent to this is like citadel's corn red again i just use the pro acryl paints because
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they're a matte finish which i love and they go on in pretty much one coat so if you've got
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equivalents use them it really doesn't matter and too many people get hung up on using the exact
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products this is the part of the tutorial where speed painting really shows its worth i'm going
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to use these Series D dry brushes to do literally every piece of edge highlighting on these models
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To start off we're going to edge highlight all the leather pouches with a flesh tone which is a
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really good way of highlighting and showing distress on leather. For anyone who hasn't done
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this Series D dry brushing before I'm going to do a tutorial on it but as you can see I'm just
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working in paint and then working it off to get it to the point where I need and then I can just
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gently brush against the surfaces of these and the model really just paints itself as the brush
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goes back and forth and picks out those edges for me whilst it leaves the surface and that's
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something that all of these dome dry brushes do that you can't get from any other brands so
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again you can push pull twist and you can see already that's an effective result
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and next we're going to use this ivory color to do the next level of edge highlighting
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don't worry if this mixes in with your previous color in fact let it encourage it to it'll be a
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more subtle blend when we start doing these edges than it is previously but with this i've just
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worked more off the brush i'm a bit more gentle at first until i understand how the brush is
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performing but again just gently over the edges back and forth and as you can see it's picking
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out those bits there and then for bits under the arm you can just sort of shove it in and twist the
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brush around and that'll do enough for us to get the edges picked out also you can use these on
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things like the purity seals and then finally if you want to do it on things like the handle of the
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sword which is the bits we did in screamer pink earlier it's a great highlight for that as well
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and then next we're going to use this dark gray blue or i think citadel's version's regal blue
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i'm just going to let this play here just to show you how quick this is this is literally end to end
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all of the highlighting that i did on this model for the first stage oh and while you're watching
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this I must admit I completely forgot to edge highlight the shoulder pads but no one's going
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to know unless I tell them anyway there you go edge highlighting done in 20 seconds and then again
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we're going to go up another level this time with bright warm grey and I'm going to let this mix in
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with the blue just so we've got a slight blend when we actually apply it to the model as I start
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painting it on this time I'm going to focus on areas like the front of the gun this is to try
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and make that stand out a lot more so you know I'm leaving it quite light at the back but a lot
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more highlight on the front where the light would be leaving the model more. And again
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also on the chest plate, I'm going for the edges rather than all the way around because I want it
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to present as though it's real light coming off the model. So now for the last bit we actually going to use this tiny extra small dry brush i don really use this for dry brushing i use it for smooshing which i show you in a sec but
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you can see the size difference there so next up we've got bold pyrol red which is kind of like
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mephist and red but a little bit lighter and what we're going to do here is we're going to be really
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careful getting it onto the brush we're going to add some water to the brush but just a touch
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and then it's a case of dabbing it on and gently sort of twisting it and turning it you've got to
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be really careful and really light here this is probably one of the more delicate pieces of the
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model that's closer to kind of edge highlighting it's a bit more consuming and i know we're spending
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a lot of time on one knee but if you get it right and you just sort of like let that blend out and
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even whilst the paint's wet then you can get a nice blend from the dark red to the light red
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without much effort and then same again here we're going to use pro aqual's orange color this is one
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of their more watery colors i'm yet to see anyone do a really really strong orange that's kind of
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got this brightness in hue um but as you can see i'm just i'm using my thumb to get some of the
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paint off and then we're going to just gently dab it on kind of where we want it almost sketching it
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in and then as it starts to dry that's when we're going to start doing the smooshing and blending
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and bringing it out. If you do start to take paint away you can always go back and paint over it later
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but just gently and you'll get a decent result. And then finally just before we start going on to the
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metallics and have to start changing our water and things the last color I'm going to use is this pure
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white and this is just to finish the power sword. Again I'm going to refer you to my other video on
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power swords. So on to metallics now I'd usually use this gunmetal which is a great color but because
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of the warmth in the armor we're going to pick magnesium for highlighting anything that we want
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in a different metal color to what the actual armor looks like as you can see with these the armor is
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silver so for things like the gun casing we need that to stand out differently and again this has
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got a slight blue hint to it so when we add the warmth to the shadows in a minute you'll see what
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i mean um we'll have that slight bit of extra contrast by having a cooler bluer metal but with
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this I just painted the gun casing and then also the vents and things on the power pack
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just to make them stand out again from the silver armor. So as you can see now on the power pack we've got a noticeable difference between the vents and the
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armor. So with this range there is in fact only one gold and one copper and the gold is too light
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so I'm literally going to smush them together and make a slightly warmer gold than what they give you
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i'll be honest i've fallen in love with this range of metallics for speed painting
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one they're nothing like any other metallics in any other range these are more like contrast paints
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but with an incredibly high shine metallic pigment and two just like proacryl they're one coat it
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doesn't matter if you paint it on black or white they're absolutely amazing so please try these out
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they're great you can see here just how fluid they are and how easy they are to paint with in fact i
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I keep having to draw paint off my brush because I've accidentally loaded too much on
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But, you know, they're a really great series of paints. They're not perfect. There are two drawbacks
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One, the copper and the gold that I've shown are the only two colours in the range that aren't a variant of silver
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So they really need to up the range with some more golds in there. And then the other problem with it that I've found is that they don't blend too well
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So if you're going from one colour to another, then there just isn't that much variation
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And the control of them is a little bit harsh. but anyway back to the painting paint all the gold bits um gold and i'm including the chest
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aquila here now technically it should be yellow to match the shoulder pads but i'm going to use
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some artistic licensing to speed things up a bit and then next we're back at the airbrush desk we
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need to apply some gloss varnish for both the transfers and for the enamel and oil washers we be putting on now i never used this before tip if you thinking of starting a YouTube channel don ever use a product for the first time when you in the middle of a planned tutorial This didn work out too well for me
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It's really great stuff, but I put it on way too thick, which caused some cracks. It actually looks
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all right in the end product, and you know, it's a happy little accident, but just a tip for you
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there. So, the next thing, we're going to apply some transfers. If you want to get the official
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transfers unfortunately you're looking at ebay at the moment and i think the prices are astronomical
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last time i saw them decent you were still talking about 15 20 pound just to get one set so unless
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hashette or games workshop release them unfortunately you're a bit stuck there so i'm not going to go
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into full detail on the whole microsoft microset thing i'll do that in a future video but the
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general steps are gloss the surface of your model so it matches the transparent edges of the transfers
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and then put some micro set down. Once you've done that, use a cotton bud to pull away any excess micro set
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and push the transfer down, get rid of any creases, apply a bit more micro set over the top and then let that dry
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Then get your micro sole, apply that over and what that'll actually do is that will embed the transfer
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into the surface of the model. And then once you've done that, like here
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just get another gloss coat and then paint that over so that it's all nice and smooth
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So this, the penultimate step, is one of my favourites, and it's applying AK Streaking Grime
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A lot of people ask me which one I use, and it's AK012
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I swear this used to be called Streaking Grime for yellow vehicles, now it's called for all vehicles
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There's tonnes of Streaking Grime, so just look for AK012. And then you just want to cover the model in it, absolutely cover the model
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Airbrush application is best, because it gets it evenly everywhere. This has been left to dry for about an hour as I nipped to the shop
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And as you can see here, without applying a, whether you want to call it a Q-tip or cotton bud
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this will just pull away at the surface of this enamel paint, even after being left for an hour
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So there's a good reason I refer to this as the Grim Darkener. Another way to do it is to just take the cotton bud and dip it in a bit of mineral spirit
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And this will help to wash away the streaking grime. And it tends to feather out the edges a bit
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So that's another way of doing it. Anyway, I'll show you this process. listen to the relaxing music and just watch me speed clean this model
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and there you go decent results in very little time and even less effort i say less effort because
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there's no skill involved here at all it's all technique so if you want to try something grim
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dark. Take any of your existing paint jobs, just cover it in streaking grime and wipe it off until
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you're happy. There you go, done. The final step really is just painting the eyes and I shot all
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this with the intention of doing a separate how to paint eyes video but I'll be honest in this
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instance I kind of ruined it. Also the yellow eyes just aren't the right colour to really make eyes
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pop. The general steps are again like the shoulder pads, dark yellow, light yellow, then a really light
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yellow and then I just used a black oil wash and wiped it off like I did with the streaking grime
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The best thing about speed painting is when you do them in batches you can get a ton of
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effective looking models knocked out in very little time. Okay that's it, thank you for watching
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that wraps up my first ever YouTube tutorial. Please let me know what you thought in the comments
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and it'll help me make better content in future. Also let me know what other models or chapters
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you'd like me to cover. For now, please like, comment, subscribe, share
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hit the bell icon. Until next time, Fauxhammer out

How to Paint: Silver Templars Space Marines for Warhammer 40k

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How to Paint: Silver Templars Space Marines for Warhammer 40k

fauxhammer.com