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Now I've been told recently if I want to start getting more YouTube subscribers I should have a catchy intro but I'm assuming since you've here you've seen the thumbnail and the reason for being here is you want to paint Iron Warriors
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So hi I'm Ross, this is Fauxhammer Videos, subscribe if you want, otherwise let's get into it
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Just a couple of touches to customize this one, I didn't feel like the heads, the beaky heads suited the Mark VI body and apparently in the lore the Mark VI armor was actually rejected by the Iron Warriors Legion
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but hey ho i like the scale of the mark 6 but i wanted it a bit more iron warrior-y so with this
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i just took one of the heads from the betrayal at kalf box set along with one of the shoulder pads
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and then to match that on his left hand side your right i also found a 3d printed part which had an
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iron warriors logo on it the first stage of this is to prime the model in black i used an airbrush
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primer but you can use whatever black primer you like so with all my speed painting videos i like to
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say not only what I do but why I do it and at least then you can take some of that theory and
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color theory and apply it to create your own recipes. Here for the initial base coat I'm using
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Rhinox Hide and this is a very dark reddish brown and that reddish brown gives us a warm tone
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which will contrast brilliantly against the cool blues that we find in the silver
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And whilst I'm using an airbrush here you can just paint this on using a normal paintbrush
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For the silver I've chosen Blue Steel from the Darkstar range. This range is absolutely
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incredible. You'll find people like Brushstroke Painting Guides, they recommend them quite
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frequently. This is an incredibly popular and undersung brand of paint. A lot of people will
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talk about Scale 75 paints and how they're the best ones, and in all honesty, these Darkstar
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metallics are identical in every way. Now, whilst Darkstar don't have the colour ranges that you can
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get in Scale 75 as yet, the range of natural metallic colours is second to none. What I
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especially love is how smooth and reflective they are because the pigment in them is so ultra fine
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and these are absolutely perfect for what we're doing now. So over the Rhinox hide base I have
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dry brushed on some blue steel again I've chosen blue steel because you've got that slightly colder
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tone to it you can't really see any blue in this steel but it's just a way of saying it's a cooler
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steel color and this will contrast immediately with the browns that we've put on as the base
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layer. Next up we're using silver from Vallejo's model air range and this is an incredibly potent
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silver really strong in color and whilst yes it's from an air range of paints you can brush it on
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just fine. This is generally all around one of the best bright silver metallic paints on the market
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The best thing about dry brushing this on is you get to retain some of that mottled effect that you
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get naturally from the dry brushing technique and whilst these are the Artis Opus dry brushers
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they're a lot smoother than what you would get if you use another brand's dry brushes then you still get some of that surface level mottling which is perfect
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because we want to leave some of the Rhinox in the recesses even on flat
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surfaces so that we got a impression of a weathered and beaten steel and with the highlight color the best thing about metallics is when you dry brush them they blend so smoothly because the mediums generally a lot more gel like so you get a lot
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more play time with them than you would get from a natural acrylic paint but with the highlight all
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we're doing is just picking out the edges most of all just to try and reinforce the shapes of the
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different forms of this miniature now whilst games workshop and your typical painting approach would
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actually have you painting in reverse of what we're doing here so they'll get you to start with
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generally the darker color and edge highlight what i'm doing with this eshen gray is painting all the
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areas that are going to be black with speed painting i generally tend to start with the mid
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tone and then shade it down from there and give it a bit of highlight if necessary so this mid
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tone is a great step for the next part in the process to paint the black areas i'm using the
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black Templar contrast paint along with the contrast medium and I'm going to thin it quite
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heavily so that it only flows into mostly the recesses but gives us a general smooth coloring
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and with this I'm going to paint area any area that I want to be black so things like the power
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pack straps on the chest any of the softer armor areas the weapon and also the shoulder pads which
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are the most important part as for leaving highlights on the shoulder pads well it's just
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a case of quickly wetting and using my finger and then rubbing it off the uppermost areas we're going
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to cover these over anyway shortly with some more detail so it's not going to matter really how
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detailed our transition is and having this little bit of hard edge will actually increase the look
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to the weathering on the finished result as for the hazard stripe on the leg well i put this on
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here for two reasons one i didn't want to do an entire leg every time i've seen someone do this
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i'm sorry but to me that just it tends to look like a ice cream cone whippy kind of you know
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yellow and black Cornetto sort of thing. So I've avoided that. I've just done a stripe down the leg
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and also this was to cover one of the mold lines that I'd scraped off a bit too harshly. So this
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also hides the edge that was picked up with the dry brushing. Now another thing to talk about is
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the hazard stripes because I know a lot of people struggle with these. Honestly the best way to get
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them right is by cutting down some masking tape and using this as a stencil. To paint the hazard
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stripes because they're masked off it is super easy and again you can do this with a airbrush or
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with a dry brush but I like the dry brush because it gives me more of again that mottled texture and
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beaten and worn look. To start off by covering the entire unmasked area in XV88 which is on the
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ochre side of the browns it's a very light brown. Moving up from there it's Avalon Sunset which is
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an ochre yellow and then finally we're going in with Yriel Yellow just at the top to give it some
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highlights and just to pick out the black areas a bit more we're using some korax white we're not
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going to do a massive transition here through many colors just korax white walked into a dry brush
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and then we're going to let this pick out all the edges on the armor and even just softly stipple in
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a bit of highlight to the top of the black areas on the shoulder pad if this touches any of the
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silver or any of the yellow it's not going to matter too much because those colors would be
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highlighted up the brightest areas would be highlighted up to a white anyway try not to get it on there but if you do it really not going to stand out at all to increase the look of the weathering we going to thin down some streaking grime and we just thinning this down with artist grade mineral spirit
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just slather this all over the model make sure you get into all the recesses because that's where
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it needs to go again this is kind of a 50 50 thin but you can go thinner if you like you can go
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thicker if you like it depends how weathered you want the model to look once you've covered the whole model just leave it to dry basically what you're looking for is for
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all of the recesses not still to look wet and glossy once you've got that that means the entire
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model is dry should take about 20 minutes to half an hour if it's taking longer than that then you
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might have applied it a bit too thick just wait longer because if you try to take it out before
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it's fully dried into the recesses you're going to take it out of the recesses easier than you are
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going to take it off the surface so you don't want to do that leave it in the recesses let it dry a
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bit longer you've got anywhere up to two three hours play time with this before it's fully dried
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and set into the surface so just leave it a bit longer and then come in with a cotton bud or q-tip
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to clean off the flat areas also try dotting and dabbing so as you clean it off you'll find your
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q-tip or cotton bud whatever you call it is going to be picking up some of that color out of the
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recesses dot this back in and kind of use it to build up the grime on the surface of the model
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as much as you are taking it off and let it sit and set in the lower areas on all the different
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parts, the different forms on the surface of this miniature. To paint in the eyes, start off by
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blacking out the eyes. I'm using my Artis Opus Series M size zero brush for this and that's
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because the shorter bristles give me a lot more control. From there it's just a case of adding
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Mephiston Red for the first three quarters of the eye, then apply some Evil Sun Scarlet to the first
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half of the eye and then a small line of flash gets yellow right at the front
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If you're feeling particularly brave you can also glaze in a glow from under the eye which I
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struggled with here and made it look like my space marine is blushing. Finally using some bold titanium
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white from Peracral which is just once again an absolutely incredible paint we're going to paint
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the tiniest dot right at the back of each eye and this is the bit where I panic and I hope I don't
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mess it up on camera but do. As for basing, well I'm not a big fan of basing. I want it basic but a
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little bit interesting. So I'm starting with some Agrelon Earth and I'm just applying this to parts
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of the base. I don't want to go anywhere near the feet. The reason I don't tend to use a lot of these
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texture paints is because it is so easy to spread and get on the model ruining all the paint job
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you've done so far. You can pop the model off the base but the problem I find with that is then the
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model looks like he's floating on top of the scenery that you've built him into rather than
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being part of it so i'm just applying this onto the top here and i'm smoothing out the edges with
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some water so that i don't get lots of cracks along the edge because as soon as i pick the
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model up they're just going to fall off i'm not using a texture spreader i'm using a really really
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rubbish citadel starter brush that you get in well you get it everywhere so if you got anything like this i highly recommend using that and then use some water and just feather out the edge Now I using some of Geek Gaming Scenic fast drying basing glue This isn PVA but it a different type of glue that actually dries kind of rubbery It
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really really good for using when basing using sands and things like that and goes well with the
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Geek Gaming Scenic's range. So with this glue I have a lot more control and once again I'm using
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the same rubbish old brush and i'm going to apply that neatly around the feet on this model these
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base ready products from geek gaming are absolutely excellent because all you need to do is slap down
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some glue which has said you've got a lot of control over and then simply dip it into the
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pot and swirl it round and with this martian earth one for example it's also pigmented so if you just
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stick the space marine in and swirl him round it'll also start to pigment the legs for you
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and give it some of that dusty look. For me, I want a little bit more control
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so I'm taking these old weathering powders from Forgeworld, which I don't think they sell anymore
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I've got their two rust colors, which essentially are dark orange and light orange, and I'm going to apply the light orange to the dark red sandy areas
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and the dark orange to the cracked and beaten earth areas, which will give me an overall orangey Martian Earth color
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with a lot of variety and powderiness to it. And as I apply this, I am going to let it touch the bottoms of the legs
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just naturally i'm not going to try and force it onto the legs so that the model itself looks
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embedded within the environment without actually being buried into the texture paint that you would
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put on it and then finally to finish him off once again we are using the vallejo 950 black
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i've said this i can't say it enough absolute best black go and get yourself a pot of this
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and then put down in the comments thank you you're so right i've never tried this before
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it's absolutely brilliant because so many people have done that on previous videos so valeo 9 valeo
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model color 950 black go get yourself a part it's absolutely incredible and with this yep just base
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the rim and that's it model complete i'm for a gallery so as i thank my patrons let me just say
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this was really really fun to paint i think you'll agree that for a quick speed paint job
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this gives you some impressive and interesting looking results i think the key here is getting
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the brown into the recesses so that we can get that contrast of color between shade and light
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and then we've also got a hue contrast between the warm tones of the shadow and the cool tones of the
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highlight whereas most people with most chapters tend to go the other way you tend to warm up the
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highlight but here we've done it the opposite way and i hope you'll agree that's given us an
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interesting result anyway please let me know what other chapters you'd like me to paint what's the
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most popular have a look at my big video that covers all of the chapters that we've painted the
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armors for thus far and if there's anything you want me to get up and get on to youtube first
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then pop it down in the comments and i will try and get those videos up next
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until next time thanks for watching that's all from me faux hammer out
