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00:00 - Intro
00:17 - Patron Shoutout
00:36 - Question of the Week
01:11 - Basecoat Armour - Averland Sunset + Troll Slayer Orange
02:20 - First Highlight - Averland Sunset
03:01 - Second Highlight - Yriel Yellow
03:59 - Reinforce Shadows - Gryph-Hound Orange
04:36 - Masking
04:52 - Painting Faces - Rinox Hide
05:05 - Painting Faces - Deathclaw Brown
05:16 - Painting Faces - Kislev Flesh
05:28 - Remove Masking
05:55 - Edge Highlighting - Wraithbone + Yriel Yellow
07:38 - Edge Highlighting - Wraithbone + Kislev Flesh
08:15 - Basecoats - Bright Warm (but Cool) Grey
08:50 - Basecoats - Flesh Tearers Red
09:10 - Edge Highlighting - Kislev Flesh
09:42 - Painting Metallics - Duraluminium + Ultramarines Blue
10:48 - Basecoats - Blue Black
11:18 - Edge Highlighting - Bright Warm (but again "Cool") Grey
11:54 - Painting Hair - Snakebite Leather
12:23 - Gloss Varnish
12:46 - "Time for Oil Paints"
14:10 - Cleaning Oils
14:15 - Matte Varnish
14:58 - Result
15:12 - Closing Comments
16:57 - Blooper(s)
Show More Show Less View Video Transcript
0:00
Hello and welcome back to Fohhammer videos and this week I'm going to be painting Fafnirang
0:06
Before I begin I just want to do a quick shout out and thanks to my Patreon
0:22
who I'll put here, one of the sides and it's thanks to them that I'm able to do videos like this now
0:28
now and if you want to support the channel obviously you can join us on Patreon but just a like
0:32
comment or subscribe to the channel really really helps out and finally I just want to do my question
0:38
of the week and this week as we have Fafnirang who is a 30k model I want to know in the comments
0:44
when do you think and you may not have heard of this but when do you think we're going to see
0:48
the Horace Heresy second edition get released I'm sure it was over a year ago now when
0:53
spiky bits actually showed us a picture of this upcoming box and we've heard absolutely
0:58
nothing from Games Workshop about this heavily rumoured and most likely release that's coming in
1:04
2022. So when do you think we're going to hear more about it? Let me know down in the comments
1:09
I'm going to get on with some painting. Come and join me. Starting off, we've got a mix of Avalon Sunset
1:14
and Troll Slayer Orange over a Vallejo grey primer base. This is close to a 50-50 mix. A lot of people
1:23
struggle when shading yellow. And the problem is if you add black, like most people
1:27
wood to darken any colour, you end up with a really, really muted yellow. So in order to darken
1:34
a yellow, you need something like an orange if you want to keep the vibrancy. But if you want to desaturate
1:39
it a bit, you can just use a brown. First step here is just to cover the entire model. Make
1:44
sure you get in all the hidden gaps and nooks and crannies and get everywhere covered in this
1:50
sort of darkened ochre colour. You may have noticed I'm using the Citadel air range here, and that's mainly because I like to use the proper Citadel and Warhammer colours when painting Space Marine armour
2:08
These are really great because you can spray them straight out of the pot, but the problem with them is that they come in pots and you can't easily transfer them to an airbrush
2:20
Next up, we're going in with pure Avaland Sunset. So what most people will do when it comes to highlighting a model using an airbrush
2:28
airbrush is they'll spray from 45 degrees and spin the model in a circle and that's called a
2:34
zenithal highlight which is an overall gradient along the surface of the model but if you really want
2:39
the model to stand out and for the armor plates and things like that to pop you've got to do what's called
2:44
picking out the forms so everything's a form that is a shape so things like the arms things like
2:50
the legs the toes the knees pads even the backpack is a form so pick out the highlights on each
2:56
component individually and the model will look far better for it. So next up is Yareal Yellow and you'll notice this is a normal layer paint, not an air paint
3:07
And the reason for that is Games Workshop don't make a air paint of this colour
3:13
Thankfully, just a couple of drops of Vallejo Airbrush thinner, four or five drops of
3:17
Yareal Yellow layer and you've got yourself your own airbrush paint. The two colours that Games Workshop do offer are Phalanx Yellow and Flashkitch Yellow, both of which
3:26
aren't going to be far too bright for the armour on this space marine. So this time we're doing exactly the same as we did before
3:40
We're just trying to be a bit more controlled and spray within the areas that we sprayed last time
3:45
There's no rule on this. It's not like spray one third or two thirds
3:49
Just keep building up layers slowly until you are happy with the progression from the new bright yellow highlight to the deep orange
3:56
base. This next step is optional, but just take some griffhound orange and you can thin it with
4:04
contrast medium. To be fair, I'm airbrushing it. I could have easily thinned it with water
4:09
So here I just kind of doing the opposite of what I did in the last step where I sprayed on the highlights And I using this sort of muddy orange to reinforce some of the shadows in different areas on the model
4:22
The good thing about contrast paint is it's super thin. So so long as you've got good airbrush control with a decent PSI
4:29
then this step is going to be an absolute doddle. So next up, I'm going to use some silly putty for masking
4:40
my favourite product for masking because it's really easy to just build up in layers and then push
4:45
into place on the model leaving the only thing exposed as the thing you want to paint. Next I'm
4:54
using rinox hide as a base for the flesh. The reddy brown tones add a really good natural
5:00
shadow for human skin so it's a great place to start. Now I'm choosing death claw brown as my first
5:09
level of skin highlight, mainly because I had nothing else to choose from
5:17
And now Kislev Flesh as a highlight for the skin, and with this one I'm only going to spray from
5:22
one side to add some depth across the surface of the face
5:28
Removing the silly putty to do the reveal is normally my favourite part of this process
5:32
but being a bit heavy-handed, I knocked both axes off the model
5:36
The reason I love Silly Pudy is because unlike Blue Tack, it doesn't fully adhere to the model
5:42
Yeah, you get some occasional bits that get stuck, but you can just pick them out with some tweezers
5:47
or get a big ball of Silly Puddy and then just roll it in and pat it against the model until it comes clean
5:56
So I'm now going to use Wraithbone to do all the edge highlighting on the model
6:00
I am, however, going to mix this in with a little bit of Yario yellow just to increase the vibrancy
6:06
of the colour that we use. And the mix together is going to make a bit of a kind of ice yellow
6:11
for lack of a better colour description. So here I'm doing three or four things at once
6:16
I'm mixing the colour whilst adding the paint onto the bristles. Then I'm working it off until it softly picks out
6:22
only the raised edges of features on my texture palette. And then once I've done that, I know that when applying it to the model
6:28
it's only going to pick up and highlight those raised edges, thus doing all my edge highlighting in literal minutes
6:36
Whilst you'll primarily see me run this along an edge to highlight one, you'll also see me doing this along an edge to highlight one, you'll also see me doing this twisting technique
7:06
which is smoohing paint onto a model. And that's another way of getting a highlight embedded into a flat surface
7:13
So things like that, seven on the shield, that's a good place to pick out because you really, really want it to catch the eye
7:19
which it will do more so when we add a shade. Also here on the top of the chest
7:23
that's somewhere that I really want to add some highlight and shine to. Now I'm going to add some Kislev flesh to that wraith bone and make a mix out of that
7:43
I know I could go up and just use flayed one flesh, but I find that a bit thin
7:47
whereas using the properties of the denser wraith bone is much, much easier for dry brushing
7:53
And here I'm just lightly picking out all the edges across the surface of the face
7:58
Even in the shadow areas, I want the highlights in there to be super duper bright
8:06
I'm now taking Pro Ackles bright warm grey to paint in any white areas along with my trusty artist
8:21
opus series 3 which I use for pretty much everything. Now I don know if it my bottle but my pro acral bright warm grey actually reads to my eyes as a slightly blue cool grey which is exactly what we want to contrast against the bright warm yellow on this model
8:38
If you haven't tried the pro-acral paints yet, do what most people do. Just go and get their white, try it out once and then have that ooh-move moment that everyone has
8:47
Before long, you'll have bought the entire set. Now, to do the red parts, we're going to be using Citadel's flesh tear as red from the contrast
8:55
The great thing about Citadel contrast paints, like any transparent inks for that matter
9:00
is they'll help retain some of that surface level shadow and highlight that you've put on in the
9:05
previous layer, although in my case I forgot how intense flesh tear as red was, and I probably
9:10
should have thinned it a bit. Now I'm going to use Kislev flesh again, and this time I'm
9:15
using it to highlight any of the red areas. And the reason why I use a skin tone is because
9:20
this is leather, and I was told a long time ago, if you're highlighting leather, well, leather is skin
9:25
if it's worn and damaged, it's going to go back to a natural skin colour
9:42
Now I'm doing all the metal areas with Vileo's duer aluminium from Vileo metal colour range
9:48
along with a drop of contrast ultramarines blue. I absolutely love this paint
9:53
It's so thin and the coverage. is excellent. I'm adding some blue in here, just a drop of blue, so that again I can have that
10:00
little bit of extra contrast against the bright yellow armour. Please try and ignore the fact that
10:06
the axe is already partially painted. The reason for this is because I tried recording this
10:10
before, but I hadn't shaken the Vallejo metal colour paint enough, so it ended up going on
10:17
too thin. So now I'm just going over and you can very slightly see that blue just pop out on the edges
10:24
of this colour. And now I'm going to drop down to the artist opus series S size 1
10:32
The reason for this, it doesn't give me a sharper point, but what it does is the width of the belly of the brush
10:38
just gives me a lot more control when trying to get into some of these areas
10:42
If I used a larger brush, I am liable to flood the area with paint
10:47
which is what I want to avoid. And now pro-acrall's blue black, which will read as black when on the model
10:52
but we can shade it down with a true black and that blue is going to give us that little bit of extra contrast
10:57
against the warm yellow of the armour. Sorry about the footage here
11:01
I went out of my focal area on the camera. I'm also now going to step down to the M-Series brush
11:07
from Artis Opus. This has a much shorter tip on it, so the bristles are very, very tight
11:14
This gives me a lot more control when painting the edge of the insignia. To edge highlight the black, we're using bright, warm grey
11:21
which I'll say again, looks to me, that is a cool grey
11:25
That is a bluey grey. Why it's called warb grey, I don't know. But again, work it onto your brush, work it off
11:31
and these domed dry brushes allow for a really soft and smooth transition
11:35
on all of the black areas of the model. And if you hit any of the silver areas, it doesn't matter, it's silver, this is grey
11:42
you're not going to see it. And now we're using Snape-Bike leather
11:56
I'm going to thin this again with contrast, and here it's pretty much necessary to use the contrast medium as a thinner
12:03
If you use water, then it ends up going a bit blotchy and splotchy
12:07
With the contrast medium thinner, it reduces the opacity of the colour
12:11
but still allows that level of control where the darker colour goes into the recesses
12:16
But you can use a wash or equivalent to do the hair in a deep brown
12:21
And now to protect all of that colour, we're going to use Vallejo gloss varnish
12:28
There's not much to see here. I mean, I'm spraying clear onto a model, so you can't really see it
12:33
So let me just tell you, we're heading into the part of the video where it's do what I say, not what I do
12:39
And what I did was leave this 20 minutes to dry before the next stage What you should do is leave it overnight or at least a few hours Time for oil paint Oh forgive me there I not sure what happened to my voice So first up with
12:54
oil paints, I'm going to mix a purple colour. The reason mainly is because Abtelung 502, my go-to-oils
12:59
don't have a deep purple colour. But I want this purple, which is a complementary colour to the yellow
13:05
of the armour, to be the majority of the shadow. But I am going to decrease the value here with
13:10
some black and add some brown in there to mute it down, but it just needs that touch of purple
13:16
to add the contrast that you need. I've also added mineral spirits to the burnt umber and the black
13:23
and I'm going to use the thin burnt umber for all of the metallic areas and the black on the reds
13:28
Now the good thing about oil paints is you don't really need to be careful with them. You just slosh it
13:33
on. And the bit where I said earlier I should have left my varnish to dry, well, we'll come on to
13:38
that in a second. But just get the purple, dark purple colour that you've made onto the yellow areas
13:44
Don't worry if it goes onto the other bits, because adding the mixture between the two areas
13:49
is going to add a bit of colour modulation and a bit more visual interest in the model. So you
13:53
really don't need to be careful with this. Just add the dark purple to the yellow, the brown to
13:58
the metallics, add the black to the reds, and then you are pretty much done. Leave it to one side
14:03
and let it dry. Just let it go matte. So remember how I said do what I say, not what I do? Well, I didn't do what I've just told you to do. I didn't let it dry at all. In fact, I only did it for about three minutes under a hair dryer. So the problem I now have is the areas of the model, the recesses that I want the pigment to stay in. Because I didn't let it dry, those areas are still wet with mineral spirits. So as I rub it with my makeup sponge, I'm just lifting it back out. That coupled with the fact that I didn't leave my gloss
14:38
varnish overnight to dry has left me with a very spotted and very speckled surface
14:45
The final thing to do on the model though, just to unify everything, is to give it a matte coat
14:50
which once again here you can't really see, but I'll show you in the finish result what the model looks like
15:08
So there we go. Even though I've made a few mistakes and there are parts I'm not happy with
15:16
I am still generally quite impressed with the result. And I'm going to stick this model up on eBay
15:21
I've been curious about doing this for a while and it's for an upcoming video that I've got an idea of
15:26
But I just want to see what the value of it is. So if you're watching this during the week that this video was released
15:31
the model's already been up for a few days and it started at only one piece. So I'm not out there saying, pro-painted, 500 pound, you've got to buy this
15:38
I just kind of want to see what the value of my artwork and my style is like
15:42
even when I've made a few mistakes and a few errors in my general process that I apply
15:47
So thank you for watching. Don't forget, we really, really do need your support
15:50
So just quickly comment, question of the week. Pop a like on the video if you liked it
15:55
Help, pop a dislike if you disliked it. But do me a favour. If you disliked it, tell me why
16:00
I know there's a few errors in the video, and I will look to improve that in the future
16:04
This is one of the first ones I've done, and I've actually forgotten a lot of the things that I did in previous videos
16:10
But this is something that I'm going to be doing more and more regularly, so hopefully I'll be able to keep the standard up and keep it quite high
16:17
If you want to give me a suggestion as you to what you want me to paint next
16:21
something quick and simple, that you just want to get an impressive-ish-looking army out on the table
16:26
Join up on our Patreon. I'm going to be doing a quick announcement and a questionnaire on there to see what people want coming
16:33
So if you join our Patreon, it's only £1 a month for now. Come and let me know what you think
16:38
And that's everything for now. So I'm going to love you and leave you. Fohhammer out
16:42
Thanks for your support. Don't forget to like, comment, subscribe. Boom. It's still come out quite impressive if I do say..
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