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At some point this summer, you turned on
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your car's AC and something felt
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different. Not broken, not completely
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dead, just not as cold as it used to be.
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Maybe it takes longer to cool down.
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Maybe it only blows cold when you are
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moving on the highway but struggles at
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idle. Maybe it was fine in May and now
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in August it just is not keeping up
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anymore. Here is what most drivers do at
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that point. [music] They ignore it for
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another few weeks. Then they go to an
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auto parts store and buy a $30 recharge
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kit because it [music] seems easy,
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cheap, and fast. Then they use it and
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for about 2 weeks the AC feels better.
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Then it goes warm again. So they buy
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another kit. That cycle, that exact
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pattern, is one of the most expensive
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mistakes you can make with your car's AC
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system. Not because the kit does not
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work temporarily, it does, but because
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it treats a symptom while the real
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problem gets worse every single week you
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wait. [music] And when that real problem
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finally makes itself impossible to
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ignore, you could suddenly be looking at
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repair. The difference between those two
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outcomes is one decision [music] made
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this week, not next month. By the end of
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this video, you will know exactly what
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your AC is trying to tell you. Which
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symptoms mean you still have a [music]
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cheap fix available and which symptoms
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mean the window for a cheap fix has
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already closed. How your AC actually
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works. In 60 seconds your car's AC
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system is [music] a sealed loop.
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Refrigerant, a chemical that absorbs
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heat, circulates through that loop
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continuously. The compressor pressurizes
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it. The condenser cools it down. The
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expansion valve drops its pressure. The
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evaporator absorbs heat from your cabin
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air. Cold air comes out of your vents.
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That loop is sealed. Refrigerant does
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not get consumed the way fuel does.
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[music] If the refrigerant level is
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genuinely low, the system has lost
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refrigerant somewhere, which usually
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means there is a leak. Low refrigerant
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is one of the most common reasons AC
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performance drops, but it is not the
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only one and the other causes matter,
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too. A system with a leak that gets
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recharged without fixing the leak will
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lose that refrigerant again, typically
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within 6 to 18 months. That is not a
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manufacturer defect. That is physics.
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The one thing to check before anything
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else, open your hood and look near the
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front of the engine bay, typically on or
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near the radiator support or the
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underside of the hood itself. There is a
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sticker that names the refrigerant your
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system [music] uses. It will say R134a
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Find that sticker before you do anything
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else. Before you buy [music] a kit,
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before you call a shop, before you spend
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a single dollar. Everything that follows
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depends on which one it says. Here is
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became widespread in newer vehicles as
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the industry transitioned to a more
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environmentally friendly refrigerant,
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>> but the exact type in your car depends
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on your specific vehicle, not just the
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year. The sticker is the only answer you
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can actually rely on. The DIY recharge
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kit problem. DIY AC recharge kits are
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everywhere. They cost $30 to $60 and
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promise to restore cold air in minutes.
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[music] For a certain type of AC problem
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on a certain type of vehicle, they do
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work temporarily. Here is what the
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packaging does not make clear enough.
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Most consumer recharge kits contain
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refrigerant. If your vehicle uses
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which is what the sticker will tell you,
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using an R134a [music] kit is not just
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ineffective. According to MACS
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Worldwide, the EPA, and FJC Inc., using
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any refrigerant other than R1234yf
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[music] to service a system designed for
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is considered tampering with a vehicle
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emissions control device. The civil
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penalty for this violation can reach
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per incident. More immediately, the
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refrigerants are not compatible and
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mixing them damages compressor oil
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chemistry, creates a contaminated system
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that requires specialized equipment to
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clean [music] up and can destroy
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components that would otherwise have
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been fine. This is also why R1234yf
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service ports use different physical
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They were designed that way specifically
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to prevent this from happening
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accidentally. Even on vehicles that use
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a DIY kit cannot tell you whether your
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system has a leak, where that leak is,
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or how quickly you will lose the
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refrigerant you just added. Many
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consumer kits also include a stop leak
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sealant that can clog the ports
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professional service equipment uses
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[music] to connect to your system,
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turning a straightforward service into a
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more complicated job before the real
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repair even begins. [music] The honest
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version, if your vehicle uses R134a,
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has no known leak history, and you are
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topping off as a one-time measure, a
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quality [music] kit used carefully is a
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reasonable temporary step. If your
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vehicle uses R1234yf,
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skip the [music] kit completely. Go
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straight to a shop that has R1234yf
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certified equipment. Now, the part most
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drivers never think about until it is
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too late. Your AC is not just telling
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you the refrigerant is low. It is
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telling you which stage you are at, and
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which stage you are at determines
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whether you still have a cheap fix or
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whether that window has already closed.
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The five stages. Which one are you at?
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Stage one, green. Do not panic yet. Weak
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cooling [music] that improves at highway
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speed, but the AC still blows cold
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eventually. This is your earliest
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warning. This symptom can point to low
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refrigerant, but condenser airflow
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problems and other causes can produce a
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similar pattern, which is why
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professional [music] diagnosis matters
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even at this early stage. What matters
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here is that the compressor is still
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working. Professional leak detection and
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recharge at this stage typically runs
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This is the cheap fix window and it is
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still open. Stage two, yellow. Pay
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attention. AC blows cold for 10 to 15
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minutes, then gradually warms up. This
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pattern points to refrigerant levels too
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low for sustained operation or an
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evaporator that is freezing over where
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moisture on the evaporator surface turns
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to ice and blocks air flow. Both are
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repairable at moderate cost if caught
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before the compressor is stressed
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further. Professional diagnosis at this
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stage, $150 to $400 depending on what is
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found. [music] The window is narrowing.
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Stage three, orange. Stop gambling.
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Clicking, grinding, or screeching from
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the compressor when the AC is switched
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on. This is a serious warning that most
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drivers ignore for too long. Clicking
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usually means the compressor clutch is
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cycling on and off rapidly because
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refrigerant pressure is too low for
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normal operation. Grinding or screeching
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from the compressor itself indicates the
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clutch bearing is failing or the
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compressor internals are already worn.
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Running a compressor in this condition
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can cause it to seize and shed metal
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shavings into the refrigerant lines.
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When that happens, the contamination
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spreads through the entire sealed loop
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and a compressor replacement alone is no
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longer enough. The system requires
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flushing before new components will
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survive. This is where a repair can
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suddenly climb toward $1,500.
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If your AC is making noise, turn it off
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and get it diagnosed before driving on
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it further. Stage four, red. Diagnose
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immediately. AC [music] stopped working
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completely and suddenly with no gradual
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warning. Complete sudden failure usually
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points to either a blown fuse [music] or
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relay, a cheap and fast fix, or a
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compressor that has already failed.
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Check the fuse first because it costs
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almost nothing. If the fuse is fine and
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the compressor is not engaging,
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professional diagnosis before spending
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anything on refrigerant or components is
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the [music] right call. Do not throw
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parts at sudden complete failure. Stage
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five, different problem entirely. Musty
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or mildew smell when the AC runs
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regardless of cooling performance. This
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is not a refrigerant issue. [music] It
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is mold or bacterial growth on the
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evaporator, which collects moisture
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every time the AC runs. That moisture
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has to drain. When the drain is
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partially blocked or the evaporator
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surface accumulates organic material,
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the smell is the result. A professional
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evaporator cleaning typically runs $100
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to $250. [music] An evaporator neglected
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long enough to require replacement runs
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because accessing it requires partially
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disassembling the dashboard. This is one
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of the most preventable expensive AC
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repairs in existence and one of the most
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common. When it does not work, the
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honest limits. Some AC failures are not
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cheap regardless of how quickly you
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catch them. A condenser hit by road
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debris and developed a pinhole leak will
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lose refrigerant no matter how recently
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it was recharged and condenser
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replacement typically runs $700 to
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A compressor that has been running on
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low refrigerant for multiple seasons may
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be internally worn even if it is not
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seized yet and replacement runs $500
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These repairs cost what they cost.
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Catching the symptom early does not
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change the fundamental repair. What it
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condenser repair from becoming a $700
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condenser plus $800 compressor because
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the compressor was run to failure while
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the leak was ignored. [music]
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Here is what to take from this. Find the
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sticker under your hood first. It tells
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you which refrigerant your system uses.
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Everything else depends on that answer.
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Match your symptom to the stage. Weak
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cooling that responds to highway speed,
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stage one, cheap fix window still open.
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AC cold then warm. Stage [music] two,
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pay attention now, compressor noise.
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Stage three, turn it off and get it
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diagnosed. Complete sudden failure,
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stage four, [music] check the fuse
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first. Musty smell, stage five,
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different problem, different fix. And if
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you have already recharged the system
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once and the cold air lasted only a few
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weeks, the refrigerant is not your
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problem. The leak is. Recharging again
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without fixing the leak is borrowing
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time you will pay for at a higher price
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later. A car AC that is slightly
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underperforming in August is giving you
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a warning that has a cheap answer if you
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act on it now. The same system ignored
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for another season can become one of the
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most expensive repairs on the vehicle.
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If this helped you figure out which
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stage your AC problem actually falls
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into, well, that is worth a [music] like
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because knowing that before you walk
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into a shop is worth real money.
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Subscribe to Your Motor Care for this
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kind of breakdown every week. One
10:28
automotive system explained honestly
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with the costs included so you are never
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the least informed person in the
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conversation. Drop a comment with this,
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which stage are you at right now? And
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did you already try a DIY kit? Those two
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answers are exactly how the rest of us
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figure out what actually works before