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so welcome back to my two-part video
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about getting started 3D printing and
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honestly I'm glad now in reflection that
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I've split this into two parts because I
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think a lot of people probably know what
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the original video was about that's
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generally just covering how a 3D printer
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Works whereas this time we're going to
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cover what the postprocessing is like so
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as a brief recap as I'm not a beginner
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anymore I met up with guy from the
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midwinter Min Channel drove down to his
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house in Colchester and walked him
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through the setup of a 3D printer and
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got perfect prints off it straight away
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if you've missed out on that and you're
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interested in the journey go and check
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out my previous video but right now
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let's get into it because we're going to
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have a look at what it takes to get
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printers off the print bed once they're
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printed to on your tabletop because
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there are some things we need to go
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through so thanks again to guy for
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hosting me and to uniformation for
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sponsoring this video please don't
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forget to check out midwinter minis if
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you haven't already it's a fantastic
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Channel much larger than mine and I'm
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proud to be featured on it but me who am
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I I'm Ross and this is faux Hammer
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videos so anyway after setting up the
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printer and starting off some prints I
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went back to guys that evening and
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played some hero quest with him and his
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friends and we had a little bit of a
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disagreement over what the rules were
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and according to the commenters on my
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channel I was right though I'm sure if
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he had comments on his Channel about who
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was right it might go a little bit of a
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different way anyway let's move on we've
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got some prints what do we do now as I
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said the night before we just threw some
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models on the printer and clicked go and
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this is all thanks to the gk2 it's got
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its convenience features but the key
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element was the fact that because it's
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got a chamber heater it means that I
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knew the environment it had be printed
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in we're using the same resin the same
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printer same environment temperature so
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in that case my settings can just be
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ported over to his printer fantastic and
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I don't mind talking up the gk2 in a
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sponsored video because I've been doing
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it now for over a year for free so if
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they want to pay me to talk about it
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more I'm going to say yes if the printer
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ever gets trumped by another one I'll
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tell you why for free but right now
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still the best printer go and check out
2:05
my review for more info or anyone's
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review for that matter I haven't seen
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anyone say it's bad so you know pay
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attention to this printer but anyway
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getting back to it the part I alluded to
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earlier is the cleanup process with 3D
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printing can be a pain now before I
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arrived at guys I recommended that he
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grab a large pickle jar and a silicon
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baking tray from Amazon and I took him a
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bottle of odorless methylated spirits
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myself now as I walk you through the
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cleaning process remember you must not
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get resin on your skin if you do wash it
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off thoroughly as soon as possible now
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when you remove your VAP from a printer
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it can drip resin which can end up on
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you and or on your floor once again you
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need to avoid touching this stuff so
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good luck finding drops in the carpet
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when you're looking for them later and
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this is why I recommended the silicon
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baking tray large silicon mats are great
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for having a work area to help you
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remove the prints from from the build
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plate without having still uncured
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residue touching your worktops now I
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usually use a large silicon matap for
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this but the tray with its rigid frame
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also gives you a large area you can put
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beneath your build plate to catch any
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drips As you move it to your prep
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surface and the tray actually kind of
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doubles as your prep surface anyway and
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because it's got raised edges it
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prevents any of the resin from going
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outside of this area this is a great
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two-in-one tool but without this at
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least grab yourself a silicon m as a
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prep area you can grab a 3D printed one
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for about 20 or $30 or you can get an
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Amazon basic silicon dog food map for
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less than a tener also if you've got a
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printer where the brand are being really
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cheap you might have plastic slidy feet
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in which case this is also a useful
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surface area to stand it on but once
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it's in this area just slide your putty
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knife under it and so long as you've got
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your base layers exposure time daring
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right I've got a different video on that
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we're not going into it here but it
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should just get under the edge of your
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support layers and they should slide off
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easily without having to break any of
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the resin in doing so make sure you're
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wearing gloves throughout this entire
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process because again resin can Splash
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everywhere this has already become quite
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messy and that's just getting the model
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off the build plate now washing and just
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like my own wargamer resin there are
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other water washable resins out there so
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you don't need special or harmful
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chemicals but water washable resins have
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a couple of drawbacks one is that they
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are water absorbent so you can't leave
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them sat in water for too long without
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them becoming brittle and two is that
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harmful chemicals are still much better
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at cleaning them and you may have heard
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people talk about cleaning prints with
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isopropanol and that's fine but over
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time I've found that the better solution
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is industrial grade odorless methylated
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Spirit and the reason this is better in
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my opinion is unlike isopropanol which
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becomes cloudy over time within a few
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months if not weeks your whole vat will
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turn into a mix of resiny sludge
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methylated Spirit stays clean and non-s
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sludgy forever I've actually used the
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same vat and a follow-up ultrasonic
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cleaner for well over a year without
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changing the fluid once but I think the
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thing that helps the most is a two-stage
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wash cycle and this is why I recommended
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the pickle jar which is also a fun
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YouTube channel you might want to check
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out you see the more resin you can get
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off your model in smaller volumes of
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cleaning agent the better
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I heavily slush my model in a meths
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filled pickle jar first before moving
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them to a more powerful cleaner well
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actually now I've been doing this for
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years I've got two pickle jars so now I
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do a first rinse a second rinse then an
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ultrasonic bath to clean out the deepest
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recesses but if you have nothing else
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and are just starting you can get away
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with just one large pickle jar then when
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you're ready get a second then get a
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proper wash unit which normally comes as
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a wash and cure bundle
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but once your models are thoroughly
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rinsed and you've got all of the liquid
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resin off the surfaces and out of the
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recesses and even the inside assuming
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you hollowed your model which is an
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option you can do in your slicer you
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then need to do the final cure and
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before you do this make sure you've left
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your models out to dry on a Surface
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because that will be able to tell you
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whether or not you've got fully cleaned
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models all of the surfaces should appear
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to be the same texture and you can
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normally tell what's still liquid resin
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as it has a gloopy glossiness and you
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can still see it in the
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recesses if you really want to push it
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to the nth degree and get everything out
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it should be fine so long as you're
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sosing it around a lot in some good
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cleaning fluid but if you really want to
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push it to the next degree you can blow
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it out with an airbrush you can use a
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toothbrush to clean out the recesses
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just don't ever use that again in your
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mouth or you can even use a spritz
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bottle to try and spray into some of the
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deeper areas the point is you want as
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much if not every last piece of liquid
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resin off and out of this model before
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we do the next stage because whatever we
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do here is now fully committed and what
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your model is going to look like forever
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now the main reason we need to cure is
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because even when cleaned and dried the
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surfaces of the model still contain
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traces of resin which isn't fully cured
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and again you should not get this stuff
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on your skin so for all of this process
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you are still wearing gloves now if you
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are a beginner and you're just getting
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into resin printing you can cure prints
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out in the sun but depending on where
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you live this could take anything from a
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few to several hours if not
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days what people tend to do at first is
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opt for more DIY options buying a UV
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curing station for nail art is common my
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first curing station I put a UV LED
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strip inside a paint tin with a solar
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powered turntable at the bottom but the
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best option is a dedicated curing
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station which as mentioned previously
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normally comes bundled with a wash
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station too there are cheap options and
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expensive options but I've stopped
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reviewing these in general because they
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all do the same thing and the price
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differences only tend to afflect the
8:13
size or the build quality of the housing
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mechanics until somebody invents one of
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these that suddenly makes me go oh my
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god wow I just don't see much point in
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covering them get the biggest one you
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can afford that you can fit in your home
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and then the final thing you need to
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know is that whilst you shouldn't touch
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the resin itself because of its toxicity
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whilst the resin's curing the reaction
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will also produce volatile organic
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compounds or voc's which pump into the
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air now some printers are sealed others
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are sealed and have inbuilt carbon
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filters but even they only do so much to
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reduce the potential hazards in the air
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whilst going through this process with
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guy it wasn't actually the resin curing
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voc's that were so bad but it was the
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methylated spirit which which caused his
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Dyson air filter to Skyrocket into the
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red levels and remain there for several
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hours despite both windows being
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open now I have no idea how sensitive
9:10
this particular air filter is and as guy
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told me himself he's seen report that
9:14
this thing can jump into the red levels
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just from somebody changing their carpet
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but regardless I think the long story
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short is that you don't want to be sat
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all day breathing this stuff in how
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hazardous this stuff is is anyone's
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guess because even I'm yet to see
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content from a reliable and trusted
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Source about how harmful the chemicals
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from this process are now on the
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Grapevine I've heard everything from the
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volume of pollutants in the process is
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so small it can't possibly affect you to
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we're all going to die and the truth is
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guys I've got no idea so when you embark
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on this process do so at your own
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Comfort level for me I pump fumes
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outside using an extractor but for a
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long time I was sat in the same room
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room with several printers running and
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just left the window open other people
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use hydroponic grow tents to house their
10:04
printers in and do the same by pumping
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the fumes outside Others May only use
10:09
the printer in a garage or shed but then
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you're back to the combating temperature
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issues so you do you in regard to this
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process but if you have any pets or kids
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be weary especially in regard to
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Dripping liquid resin on the floor where
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they may play walk or even lick now as I
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look back over the resin printing
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process which is has actually taken two
10:30
videos I saw it more and more from guy's
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point of view as he's more of a beginner
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it does look arduous and messy just from
10:37
this overview but I have added a lot of
10:40
why certain best practices work along
10:42
with some options for people too so
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whilst it's long I've probably gone into
10:46
a bit more detail than the brief
10:48
overview once you get your head around
10:50
it and go through it once it really is
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just a case of get a printer dial in the
10:54
settings slice print clean wash and cure
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with those last four four steps being
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quite rinse and repeat you literally
11:01
just slice print wash and cure you don't
11:04
need to buy a printer or reconfigure
11:06
your settings every time but you will
11:09
need gloves for each step of every stage
11:12
and it's why I do most of my stuff in
11:14
batches now this whole process did open
11:17
my eyes to just how daunting this could
11:19
be to somebody coming at this fresh and
11:21
with the potential risks involved I
11:23
completely understand that this is not
11:25
everyone's cup of tea far from it
11:28
printers are slowly getting easier to
11:30
use with manufacturers adopting much of
11:32
this stuff which has been DIY for ages
11:34
directly into their Hardware with resin
11:36
heers being the latest popular edition
11:39
next we need to see Brands adopt better
11:41
filtration systems and just options in
11:43
general now in all honesty I hope this
11:46
video hasn't put you off resin printing
11:48
but I also hope it hasn't encouraged you
11:50
either many people love it many others
11:53
hate it both choices are absolutely fine
11:56
so long as you choose what's right for
11:57
you all I wanted to do was give you an
12:00
honest and unfiltered Journey so that
12:02
you can make the most informed decisions
12:05
and if you decide to go for it know what
12:07
you're going to have to get alongside
12:08
the printer to get everything working
12:10
which is basically a printer probably a
12:12
decent USB drive a silicone Trail mat
12:15
and a couple of pickle jars along with a
12:17
ton of gloves at the very least beyond
12:20
that you can get a wash and cure station
12:22
when you're ready I'd honestly love to
12:25
know what you think after going through
12:26
these two videos is resin printing for
12:29
you again either options fine but it'd
12:31
be great to weigh up what people have
12:34
come out of the back of this video
12:35
thinking have I changed your mind from
12:37
what you thought before I want to say
12:39
thanks for watching and especially to
12:41
our members who help us afford to make
12:42
these videos and are just generally
12:44
wonderful people for giving me money
12:46
every month in order to put their name
12:47
up in lights but they do get priority
12:49
comment replies to along with Early
12:51
Access please consider joining them with
12:53
the button below this video unless
12:55
you're on the IOS app in which case
12:57
check the video on a PC to join I want
12:59
to say thanks to guy for hosting me and
13:01
thanks to uniformation for sponsoring
13:03
this video until next time
