How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section I): PCB Circuit Build

Name: How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section I): PCB Circuit Build | Open Video
Uploaded: 2026-01-19T16:29:40+00:00
Duration: 49 min 56 s

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Welcome to part six, section one of the Albbot project.
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I know what you're thinking. Why are we going to draw our schematic diagrams by hand? Can't we just use some type of
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software that will allow us to quickly draw up whatever we need? The answer to this is yes, probably. But there are a
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couple of reasons why I like to draw my PCB schematic diagrams by hand. One, it helps out to create a visual
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aid. When drawing a schematic diagram by hand, I can draw it to the best of my ability as the circuit should look in
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the real world. This helps me to visualize how components should connect to the PCB and to determine exactly
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where they can go. Two, it makes customization easy. With a hand-drawn
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schematic diagram, I can lay out how I want the components to be down to the exact through holes on the prototype PCB
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board. This allows for total customization for the specific board that is being used. Three, it removes
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any doubt during the soldering phase. Once I have my drawing all laid out and I'm ready to begin soldering components
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to the PCB board, I can do so with more confidence, knowing that I have my handdrawn schematic diagram I drew up
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beforehand. This helps remove any doubts that could have occurred if I had not taken the extra step of creating a
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visual aid. This is not a professionally done project by any means. If it were, of course, I'd want professionally done
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diagrams and schematics. We're just having fun here, but we also don't want to have a bad day by messing up our
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project by making the wrong solder connections either. Drawing out any visual guides can help out tremendously,
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especially one such as this Albot project since it has several components to deal with. If you're not up to
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drawing your own schematic diagram, you're more than welcome using the one that I've provided down in the link
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below. Just know that it's customized to the type of boards that I'm using. So,
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if you're using a different version of Arduino microcontroller, then your PCB
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prototype shield will obviously be different than mine. If you're using a different size PCB prototype board, my
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drawing won't be like how the placement of components will be for your type of board. If you decide to draw your own
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schematic diagram, don't fret on perfection. The sole purpose of the drawing is to act as a guide to solder
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your components in the proper way they need to be so that you're not secondguessing yourself during the
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transfer of components from the breadboard to the prototype PCB board. I
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like to draw components and devices used in my projects as they are. I may use
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schematic symbols if I think it'll work for my understanding of the circuit, but
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having a real representation of something makes assembly and soldering much more easier and comfortable for me.
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You can do whatever works for you. Just take your time and know that the most important thing is to make sure that you
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have all your connections correct. Use the help of the other schematics we
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use throughout this entire project series and just worry about making your drawings practical, not pretty. I'll be
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sure to leave the links down in the description below for all the uh
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schematics that we used thus far in this entire project series.
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I've divided the placement of components onto two separate prototype boards. One
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is an Arduino shield board and the second one is a 240 hole PCB prototype
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board. It's a 3x7 cm I believe. I'm currently uh drawing that one right now.
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We will fit the Arduino shield board on top of the Arduino Uno that we're using
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for this project. It will give us a direct connection to all the pins of the Arduino. We will place the MP3 player we
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added in part two of the series directly to this shield. We will add connectors to the shield for
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access to the 5V supply from the Arduino. And we will add connectors to
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make a common ground. And we will make our connections for the speakers, the
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pier sensor and LEDs for the Albbot to this shield board as well. As for the
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240 hole PCB prototype board, we will make our connections for the DC motor
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and solenoids we are using for this project. And we will also make direct
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connections to the secondary 9V power supply we added in part four of the series consisting of six AA batteries.
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We will also make a connection from this board to the common ground that we'll
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place on the Arduino shield board.
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Okay, now that we have the handdrawn schematic diagram out of the way, the
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first thing we'll need to do is to add the components we need to go onto the Arduino Uno prototype shield board and
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solder them in place. We'll reference the handdrawn schematic diagram we created earlier so that we can
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methodically transfer each individual component one at a time from the
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breadboard to the shield board to be soldered.
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We'll start off with making the connections from the ground and 5V holes
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or through holes of the Arduino Uno prototype shield board. These connections will provide our common
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ground and plus 5V supply from the Arduino's onboard voltage regulator that
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will power components like the pier sensor, red LEDs, and MP3 player. First,
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we're going to take a couple of small lengths of black 22 gauge or 22 AWG
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solid core wire. will strip their ends about a quarter inch and then bend both
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ends of those wires to be able to fit across the through holes that we're
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using to create the connections that we need. So, I'm currently customizing a
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strip of black wire to extend from the ground through hole on column 18, the
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one next to the plus 5V supply to a through hole on column 15 that's in line
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with that ground. And then I'll eventually take my second length of
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black wire to connect to the second ground through hole because there's two
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locations for ground not only from the Arduino itself but on this Arduino
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prototype shield board cuz it matches with the Arduino that it will sit on top
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of the holes will match up. So for the second wire, I'm going to extend from
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the second ground through hole on column 18 to a through hole at column 16 that's
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in line with that ground. So as you saw earlier, I had already
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taken a small length of red 22 gauge or 22 AWG solid core wire. I had stripped
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its ends about a/ quarter inch and bend both of the ends of the wire to fit from the hole at column 18 or the through
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hole at the plus 5V supply to the hole at column 16 which is in line with that
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plus 5V supply. And that's what I was showing with the arrow and the handdrawn
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schematic diagram insert on the screen.
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Now that we got the first couple of connections made to the prototype PCB shield board, let's move on to the MP3
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player. Looking at the handdrawn schematic diagram, we can see that the chosen pin location on the shield board
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is located along columns 5 and 13. The DF Player Pro MiniMPP3 player written as
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its model number DFR0768 has a total of 12 pins, six pins on each
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side. I'm going to place the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins on the MP3
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player in line with the holes for pins 13, ground, AF, and SDA respectively.
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Along column five of the board, the pins for VN, ground, RX, TX, DACR, and DAC of
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the MP3 player are placed along column 13. When the MP3 is ready and positioned
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on the board, we can solder all the pins in place.
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Once we have the MP3 player soldered to the Arduino prototype shield board, we now need to extend the connections we
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made for the positive and negative supply jumper wires we did in step one. First, take a length of red 22 gauge
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solid core wire. Strip its ends about 1/4 in and bend both ends of the wire to
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fit from the through hole on column 16 in line with the row for the positive
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3.3 volt supply next to the small length of red wire we added earlier for the
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positive 5V supply.
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As you can see here in the video, I did not place this new red jumper wire in the location I just mentioned here. In
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just a sec the video, I'll show with an arrow where I ended up changing the location of the red wire I just
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mentioned previously. Solder this wire so that it's connected to the red wire we added earlier for the
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positive 5V supply. Next, solder the other end of this new red jumper wire in
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the through hole in line with the VN pin of the MP3 player on column 16. Now,
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take a length of black 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about one
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quarter inch and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on column 15 in line with the row for the
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positive 5V supply next to the small length of black wire we added earlier for the ground. Solder this wire so that
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it's connected to the black wire we added earlier for the ground.
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Next, solder the other end of this new black jumper wire in the through hole in line with the ground pin of the MP3
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player on column 15. Here, I'm doing all the soldering at
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once once I'm done placing all the jumper wires in their through holes
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instead of doing it step by step as I go.
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Looking at a closeup of the board as it is so far, we can see that on our
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Arduino prototype shield board that we have our red jumper wire coming from the
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positive 5V supply up and over towards the VN pin of the MP3 player. Of course,
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all of the soldering is done on the opposite side of the board, which we can't see at the moment, but we'll see
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what it looks like in just a second once I flip the board over so we can see that view.
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Here I'm pointing out the pin locations on the back side of the board where we need to solder the red jumper wires
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together to complete the circuit all the way from the positive 5V supply to the
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VN pin of the MP3 player. And of course, we'll want to do the same for all the black ground wires that we created
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earlier. So, we'll want to connect both of the smaller black jumper wires that
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we created coming from the two ground through holes. Then soldering those two
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together to the longer black jumper wire that we created to extend all the way to
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the ground pin of the MP3 player so that we can complete the ground circuit from
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the two ground points all the way to that ground pin of the MP3 player.
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Next, we need to add the two 680 ohm current limiting resistors for the two red LEDs we're using as the Albot's
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blinking red eyes we added in part three of this project series.
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You can see here on the handdrawn schematic diagram where we'll be placing those two 680 ohm resistors. The labeled
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points A and B represent the connection points for the anodess of the LEDs that
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will connect via a JST connector. will assemble later.
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What we'll end up doing is take one of the 680 ohm resistors and place one of
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its leads into the through hole on the prototype shield board in line with where pin 4 will be on the Arduino on
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column three of the shield board. Then we'll place the other terminal of the resistor into a through hole also in
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line with where pin 4 will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board.
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as we saw earlier on the handdrawn schematic diagram. Then what we'll do is
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take the other 680 ohm resistor and place one of its leads into the through
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hole on the prototype shield board in line with where pin five will be on the Arduino on column 3 of the shield board.
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Then we'll place the other terminal of this resistor into a through hole also
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in line with where pin five will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board. Next, we'll end up taking the
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1,00 ohm resistor and place one of its leads into the through hole on the
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prototype shield board in line with where pin 2 will be on the Arduino on
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column 3 of the shield board. We'll place the other terminal of this 1k ohm resistor into a through hole also in
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line with where pin 2 will be on the Arduino on column 7 of the shield board.
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Then we'll solder each of the terminals of this 1k ohm resistor under the bottom side of the prototype shield board and
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trim the excess leads off with our cutters just as we did with the two 680 ohm resistors. If at any point that you
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feel confused, you may refer to the handdrawn schematic diagram that I drew that I'll leave down in the description
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below. And you can also refer to the step-by-step process of this part of the
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project via the link that I'll leave down in the description below.
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Once we have the resistors in place from step four, we're now ready to make the connections we need to the RX and TX
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pins of the MP3 player using some more jumper wires. First, take a length of
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blue 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about 1/4 in and bend both ends of
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the wires to fit from the through hole on column 8 next to the lead of the 1k
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ohm resistor we soldered on column 7.
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Now take the other end of the blue jumper wire and place it in the through hole on the prototype shield board on
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column 13 in line with the 1k ohm resistor.
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Next, take another length of blue 22 gauge solid core wire, strip its ends
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about 1/4 in, and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on
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column 13 next to the lead of the blue wire we just added. We're going to eventually solder the leads of these two
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blue wires together so that we may continue this blue wire path.
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Then take the other end of the blue jumper wire and place it in the through hole on the prototype shield board on
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column 14 next to the RX pin of the MP3 player module. So as we can see here,
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our path should follow through from next to where pin 2 will be on the Arduino
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through the 1k ohm resistor and through the blue jumper wires we just added onto
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the board to the RX pin of the MP3 player.
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And looking at our diagram, we can see that connection from pin 2 through the 1k ohm resistor and over to the RX pin
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of the MP3 player.
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Now take a length of orange 22 gauge solid core wire. Strip its ends about
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1/4 in and bend both ends of the wire to fit from the through hole on column 3
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next to where pin 3 will be from the Arduino. Now take the other end of the orange jumper wire and place it in the
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through hole on the prototype shield board on column 14 next to the TX pin of
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the MP3 player module.
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Referring back to the handdrawn diagram, we can review that we've currently placed the positive 5V supply from the
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shield board to the VN pin of the MP3 player. We've also connected the two
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ground point locations on the shield board to a single point on the board. And from that point, we've connected
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another black ground wire to the ground pin of the MP3 player.
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If we refer back to the connection point where all the ground points are
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connected together later in the build will create a common ground connection
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point using a header pin and we'll do that later in the build. Also, we've
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created the connections to pins four and five to the two 680 ohm resistors and
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later we'll add a JST connector to the other ends of those two resistors to be
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able to connect the anodes of the LEDs. And we've also made a connection point
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to where pin 2 will be from the Arduino on the shield board and have connected a
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1k ohm resistor. And from that resistor, we've made a connection with the blue jumper wire to the RX pin of the MP3
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player. We've also made a connection using an orange jumper wire from the pin
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3 location on the shield board to the TX pin of the MP3 player.
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In order to have devices and other items easily be connected and disconnected from our Arduino prototype shield board,
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we're going to add a few connectors and header pins to it. We'll add a four pin straight header pin for connections to
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the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro Mini MP3 player
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module. We'll also add a two pin connector socket to make a connection to the Arduino prototype shield board at
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the two 680 ohm resistors where the LED wiring assembly will connect to that
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we'll make later in the build. We'll also add a four pin right angled header
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pin for common ground connections to the Arduino prototype shield board. We'll start with the four pin right angled
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header pin for common ground connections to the Arduino prototype shield board. I first connected a two pin right angled
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header pin but later decided to add more. So I decided to add a second two
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pinned right angled header pin to make it four pins. So all you need to do is
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just take a four pinned right angled header pin to add to your board. So let's take a four pin right angled
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header pin and place it at column 14 having the pins in line with both ground
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rows and the rows for the positive 5 volts and the positive 3.3 volts on the
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Arduino prototype shield board. Make sure that the angled pins are pointing toward the center of the shield board
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and not towards the power connections we made earlier.
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We'll end up soldering the four pin right angled header pin in place. To make things easier to solder and to hold
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the header pin in place, you can add a piece of tape over the pins to the board
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to keep the header pins from falling out as you solder them to the underside of the prototype shield board.
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Next, we need to make the connections from each pin of the four pin right angled header pin to the ground
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connections we made in steps one and three.
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We'll solder each pin of the four pinned right angled header pin together. Then
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solder that whole connection to the black ground wire connections we made in steps one and three on columns 15 and
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16. Be aware that we are only making our
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connections to ground. Do not solder this header to the positive 5V connections.
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Next, we need to add the two pin JST connector socket to the Arduino prototype shield board at column 8 next
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to and in line with the two 680 ohm resistors we added to the shield board
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in step four.
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We'll then want to solder this two pin JST connector socket to the shield board. Do not solder the pins of this
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connector socket together.
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Once you've soldered each pin of the two pin JST connector socket to the shield board, you'll need to solder each pin to
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the corresponding 680 ohm resistor lead next to it. This will connect each
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resistor to its corresponding pin at this connector socket. This connector socket will allow us to connect the two
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red LEDs we added to the Albot prototype circuit in part three of the project series using a JST XH2Y connector socket
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we'll set up later in this build.
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Now we need to take a four pin straight header pin and place it at column four
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having the pins be in line with the R minus, R plus, L minus, and L+ pins of
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the DF Player Pro MiniM MP3 player module. Make sure that the pins of the
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connector socket are placed on column 4 and not on column 3. We don't want this
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connector socket to be in the through holes that would connect it to pin 13,
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ground, a ref, and SDA of the Arduino.
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We'll want to solder this four pin straight header pin to the shield board. Do not solder the pins to this header
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pin together.
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Once you've soldered each pin of the four pin connector socket to the shield board, you need to connect each pin to
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the corresponding pin next to it from the MP3 player module.
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Those are the R minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro MiniMPP3
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player module.
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In step six, we added a four pin straight header pin to the Arduino prototype shield board next to the R
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minus, R+, L minus, and L+ pins of the DF Player Pro MiniMPP3 player module.
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Those pins are for the two speakers we're using to be able to hear the audio playing from the MP3 player. one right
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speaker, that's the R minus and R+ pins on the MP3 player, and one left speaker,
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that's the L minus and L+ pins on the MP3 player. Now, we're going to create a
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four-wire connector we'll use to connect from the four header pins we just added to the shield board to each wire of the
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speakers. First, let's cut a 6 to 8 in length of red 24 gauge stranded wire and strip its
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ends about 1/8 of an inch.
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Next, take a dup. Dupont female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin
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onto one of the ends of the red wire you just stripped.
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Cut another 6 to 8 in length of red 24 gauge stranded wire. Make sure to keep
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it the same length as the previous wire and strip its ends about 1/8 of an inch. Take a DuPont female connector pin and
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your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto the end of the second red wire you just stripped.
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Now cut a 6 to 8 in length of black 24 gauge stranded wire, keeping it the same
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length as the two previous red wires, and strip its end about 1/8igh of an inch.
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Next, take a DuPont female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto one of the
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ends of the black wire you just stripped.
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Cut another 6 to 8 in length of black 24 gauge stranded wire, making sure to keep
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it the same length as the previous wires we just did, and strip its ends about 1/8 of an inch. Take a DuPont female
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connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto the end of the second black wire
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you just stripped.
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Now that we have our four equal lengths of wire prepped, two red ones and two black ones, we can now take a four
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terminal DuPont housing connector and place the four wires we just prepped into the housing of this connector.
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To finish up this four-wire connector, we need to add DuPont female connectors and the housing to the other ends of the
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wires, just as we did in the previous steps. Before doing so, I added some electrical tape around the four wires to
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keep them straight, flat, and neat as I worked.
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Once the four-wire connector was assembled and finished, I added more electrical tape to keep the wires
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flattened out and to tidy this assembly up a
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Here you see me getting a little ahead of myself and cutting two 12 to 14 inch
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lengths of 24 gauge stranded wire. You see me cutting one red and one black
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wire, but I need two 12 to 14inch lengths of red wire.
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Our goal here is to assemble the wire connectors for the LEDs that we're using
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as the Albot's flashing red LED eyes we set up back in part three of this Albbot
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project series. I'll leave links to the blog post and to the video for that part
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of the series down in the description below.
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I had somehow forgotten to record making the two-wire connector we need for
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connecting to the PCB shield board at the two pin JST connector socket we
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soldered to the board back in step six, which is also to connect to the anodess
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of the LEDs. It's a shorter connector made up of two smaller lengths of black
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wire about 6 to 8 in. So, if you take a look at the images within the orange circle, you can see the white JST
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connector on the left. That's the XH-2Y housing connector, and the two XH female
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pins on the right. What you would do is you'd take your two smaller lengths of
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black wire, each about 6 to 8 in in length. You would take your crimping tool and crimp an XH female pin
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connector at the ends of both of the two black wires, just on one end of each
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black wire. And then you would take those crimped ends with the XH female
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pins on both of those black wires and insert those into the white uh JST
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uh connector housing that you see in the image on the left and the orange circle. And then, as you can see in red, you can
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see what's called the JST SYP-2Y connecting connector housing. And you'd
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take a couple of SYP female pins, crimp them on the other ends of the two black
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smaller wires, the 6 to8 in lengths of wire, and then you would insert both ends of those black wires into that red
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SYP connector housing. And that would make up the smaller uh wire connector
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that goes from the two pin JST connector
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socket that's on the shield board. And then the other end of the two small black wires has the SYP connector. And
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what we'll eventually do is add an SYP connector to the ends of the two longer
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red wires we started out with. So the connector that you see in this image here will insert into the SYP female
39:22
connector that's at the ends of the two longer black wires. But you'll see how
39:27
this works later in the video. And I've left the instructions on how to create
39:32
these wire connector assemblies for part eight on our blog post on the website.
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And I'll leave the link for the instructions for this entire video. this part six of the Albot project section
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one down in the description below. Okay, so at this point I've cut a couple 12 to
39:51
14inch lengths of red 24 gauge stranded wire and have stripped both of their
39:57
ends about 1/8 of an inch. Okay, what you're looking at here is an SYP-2A
40:03
connector housing and we're going to use this as one of the connectors on the ends of the two long red wires we just
40:10
cut. and it's to connect with the SYP2Y connector housing that we used at the
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end of the two smaller black wires that we created to connect to the JST
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connector that we added to the Arduino prototype shield board from before. Now, we need to take an SYP male connector
40:28
pin and a crimping tool and crimp the male pin onto one of the ends of one of
40:33
the long red wires we just cut and stripped. We're going to want to do this for both of the long red wires.
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Now that we've added the SYP male connector pins to the ends of both of our long red wires that we cut earlier,
42:14
we can now grab our SYP2A connector housing that can fit two pins so that we
42:20
can take Take the ends of the two red wires we just prepped with SYP male connector pins and place the pins into
42:27
the connector housing all the way until they are securely in.
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Now that we have one end of both red wires connected to an SYP2A connector
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housing, we can now move on to soldering the other ends of the red wires to the
44:03
anodess of the LEDs. We are still working with our two long red wires here. Tin the stripped ends of
44:10
the red wires that have not been connected to anything yet.
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Next, tin the anodess of the two LEDs we are using from part three of the Albot
44:28
project series. Take one red wire end and solder it to
44:36
the anode of one of the LEDs.
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I'll be adding heat shrink tubing to all my connections. So, be sure to add a
44:51
piece of heat shrink tubing over your wire before you start making any solder
44:57
connections. That way, once you're done soldering, you can place your heat shrink tubing at your connection and
45:03
then add heat to it to protect that soldered connection. Then take the other
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red wire and solder its end to the anode of the second LED.
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Now that we have the anodes of the LEDs connected to our long red wires with the SYP2A connector at their ends, we now
45:30
need to make connections to the cathodes of the LEDs so that we may use a DuPont connector to connect them to the common
45:37
ground header pins we soldered to our Arduino prototype shield board back in step six. Cut an 18 to 20 inch length of
45:46
black 24 gauge stranded wire and strip its ends about 1/8igh of an inch. We'll
45:51
need two lengths of wire total. So, go ahead and cut yourself another and strip its ends as well. Next, take a DuPont
45:57
female connector pin and your DuPont crimping tool and crimp the female connector pin onto one of the ends of
46:04
one of the long black wires you just cut and stripped. Now take your other long black wire and another DuPont female
46:10
connector pin and crimp the female pin onto the end of the second long black wire. The next thing to do is to get a
46:17
DuPont housing connector that can fit two pins so that we can take the ends of
46:22
the two black wires we just prepped with DuPont female pins and place the pins into the connector housing all the way
46:29
until they are securely in.
46:35
Now that we have one end of both black wires connected to a DuPont connector housing, we can now move on to soldering
46:41
the other ends of the black wires to the cathodess of the LEDs. We're still working with our two long black wires
46:47
here. Tin the stripped ends of the black wires that have not been connected to anything yet. Next, tin the cathodes of
46:55
the two LEDs we're using. Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over your wires
47:00
and slide them out of the way. We'll use them to protect the soldered connections.
47:09
Take one black wire end and solder it to the cathode of one of the LEDs.
47:17
Take the other black wire and solder its end on the cathode of the second LED.
47:27
After you've soldered the black wires to the cathodes of the LEDs, you can now slide the heat shrink tubing up to those
47:34
soldered connections and then heat the heat shrink tubes to give a nice secure
47:39
covering over these soldered connections. So, you can see here that we have our
47:45
long red and black wires soldered to the LEDs. This is the DuPont connector end
47:50
of the two long black wires. This end will get connected to the common ground header pins we established on the
47:56
Arduino prototype shield board earlier. That section is shown here in the red circle of the image of the diagram. The
48:03
other ends of these black wires are connected to the cathodes of the LEDs.
48:08
This end is the SYP connector we added to the ends of our two long red wires.
48:14
Their other ends are connected to the anodes of the LEDs. As you can see in the image of the diagram, I've circled
48:20
in red where this connection will be made on the board next to the two 680
48:26
ohm resistors we added to the shield board. This connection is at the labeled points A and B. I made a pink box around
48:34
the LEDs in the diagram showing their connections as they should be.
48:45
For this section of part six of the series, we've begun the process of creating a more permanent fixture for
48:50
the Albot to have all its electronic organs soldered in one place. We began
48:56
the process of transferring some components from the breadboard to the PCB. We've done some soldering and we've
49:01
made some of our own connectors. We've done a lot, but there's a lot more to do. Transferring everything over from
49:08
the breadboard to the PCB takes a lot of time and work. And putting it all in one video would make working on it very
49:15
cumbersome. So, part six of this series has been divided into its own sections
49:20
to alleviate the headache of working on all of this in one go. This was section one. Next, we'll have section two. And
49:27
in section two, we'll continue our process of creating our own wire connectors and move on to working on
49:33
making connections for the speakers for the MP3 player and the connections for the pier sensor. We should have all the
49:40
electronics working and ready to go. After that, ready for testing and to finally be placed inside our owl figure.
49:47
We may finally have a body for the Albot. Thank you for participating and thanks for watching. Until next time,
49:54
keep at it and stay motivated.

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How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section I): PCB Circuit Build

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