How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build

Name: How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build | Open Video
Uploaded: 2026-01-19T16:28:36+00:00
Duration: 59 min 16 s

0:05
Welcome to section two for part six of the Albot project. For the next order of
0:11
business, I have these speakers here for the Albot that have these little JST connectors on them that I need to cut
0:17
off. I don't have any small connector pins for this size. I just have larger ones. So, I'm going to replace these
0:25
with what I have here. You can see the size differences here.
0:31
You may not need to do this step depending on what speakers you're using. This is what I need to do. So, that's
0:37
what I'll do next.
0:49
I'll just go ahead and snip this connector off the speaker here. Then split the wires and then I'll strip
0:55
their ends.
1:10
So you could see here this is that four wire connector we made from before in section one for the connections to the
1:18
pins for the speakers to the MP3 player. Those were the R+, R minus, and L+ and L
1:25
minus pins of the MP3 player for the right and left speakers. I used a four
1:31
pin female DuPont connector on the ends of this four-wire connector I made. And
1:36
you can see the yellow header pins where that homemade four-wire connector goes for the speakers to connect to the MP3
1:44
player. So now what I need to do is strip the ends of these wires on the
1:49
speaker to add male Dupont connectors on these wires to be accepted into that
1:54
four wire female DuPont connector I just showed you. So each wire of each speaker
2:00
will have these male pin DuPont connectors on them. two for each speaker, the left and right speaker to
2:07
connect to the MP3 player via the four wire connector on the yellow header pins of the Arduino shield board we created
2:14
in section one of part six of this build. So, let's do that next.
2:20
[Music] [Applause]
2:28
[Music]
2:43
[Music] Okay, we can see here this is what those
2:49
male DuPont connectors look like once this is done. This will allow me to easily connect and disconnect from that
2:56
four-wire connector to the MP3 player on the Arduino Shield board we made. I'm
3:01
sure there's better ways to do this connection, but this is what I had and what I came up with. I ended up splicing
3:08
in some more length of wire to the wires of the speakers just to give me more length because I wanted to be sure that
3:15
I could place these speakers wherever I needed inside the Al figure I'm using for the Albot since it's pretty tall.
3:22
All I did was solder the wires together and added heat shrink tubing for protection. So, this speaker should be
3:29
ready to go to be connected to the MP3 player. Okay, I have the setup for the
3:35
two speakers done. The wires have been taped up with electrical tape to keep them together and the connectors are
3:42
finished. I'll demonstrate what hooking them up to the MP3 player will look like. The only thing that I'm making
3:49
sure that I do is to match the red and black wires when I connect them. I have
3:55
the red as the positive wire and the black as the negative wire for both the
4:00
speakers and how the four pin connector wire is set up to the yellow header pins
4:05
for the MP3 player. It doesn't matter which speaker I hook up as left or right. Either speaker can be either
4:13
configuration. So, we can see here how the connections for the speakers to the MP3 player on the Arduino Shield board
4:20
we made will look like. Again, I've left myself plenty of length in my wires to
4:26
place them wherever I need to on the owl figure later for the finished Albot.
4:37
Okay, what I've decided here is that for the pier sensor output line, it's going to have to go to pin 12. So, I'm going
4:44
to use a strip of yellow header pins here. And since we're not using pins 6 through 12, I just took the header pins
4:50
that I needed and lined them up on pins 6 through 12. We're only going to be using pin 12
4:57
again for that out pin of the pier sensor. I took the Fresno lens off the pier sensor so that I could see the pin
5:04
labeling underneath. So, we have VCC out and ground. That out is the yellow wire
5:11
and that's going to go to pin 12. We won't be connecting anything to the rest of the pins. If you wanted to
5:18
connect something else in the future or add something to the albot, you could, but I just did it this way to make it
5:25
easier to connect to pin 12 based on the configuration that I have on the board.
5:31
So, I didn't really plan things out. I'm just winging it. So, this is how I'm putting it together right now. And for
5:37
the power or VCC, which is the red wire or VCC for the pier sensor, I just took
5:43
these three red header pins here and put them in line with the red jumper wire we
5:49
put in earlier on in section one of part six of this build. That red jumper wire
5:55
goes to VN to the MP3 player, which comes from the 5V supply that comes from
6:01
the Arduino. And then again, I'm just going to use one of these pins we established for the
6:07
common ground we put in in section one of part six of this build. I'll use one
6:13
of the ground pins for the black wire or ground wire of the pier sensor, which
6:19
will connect to the common ground.
6:24
So, in order to keep all the header pins down while I solder them in because they're just loose here, I'm going to
6:31
use some tape. Again, you can do whatever you want, whatever is easier for you to keep it all in place. Again,
6:38
I'm going to use just regular scotch tape. It's just to hold it in place for
6:44
now so that it's not falling out on me when I turn the board over here in a minute.
6:49
I'll just take another piece of tape and place it over the yellow headers I need to solder in place as well. This tape
6:56
should hold it in place for when I rotate it over, they're not going to fall out on me. And when I can, I can
7:03
just try to use my other finger to hold them in place. So now I've got to solder. But before I
7:11
get into that, you just have to make sure that when you're taping that you're not going to overlap the tape onto where
7:18
you're trying to solder the pins like I did here. So, I'll just kind of move it out of the way, but making sure that the
7:25
tape is still on the board so I can keep all that down and it's not moving on me. So, I'm going to solder here and these
7:33
pins here. I don't know if you can see that on the
7:38
camera or not.
7:46
[Music]
8:00
[Music] Okay. So now
8:08
this blob here is for all the pins for the red header pins. The three that I
8:13
put here, they're all connected together here because we want them all to be
8:18
connected to the plus 5 volts, which is connected to this jumper that we added
8:24
from before for the plus 5 volts going to VN of the MP3 player, which goes to
8:33
this red jumper wire that goes to the smaller red jumper wire tied to the plus
8:40
5 volts pin here. to where the Arduino will be. So, all of that is connected to
8:46
these three red header pins now and also underneath going to the VN pin of the
8:53
MP3 player. So, these are all connected to each other, but these yellow header pins are
9:01
all separate. So, I didn't connect all these together because they need to go
9:07
to each of the pins 6 through 12. Again, we're going to use pin 12 for
9:13
this project, but the other pins will be open here. I just did this to make it easier, and maybe later I would want to
9:21
add something to the project. I don't know. But for now, we're just going to
9:26
be using pin 12. And that's these individual pins here. This group of pins
9:32
right here. And those are all connected to the pads across from each other. And
9:38
these are pins 6 through 12. So, pins 6 through 12.
9:44
So, again, these are separate. They're not soldered to each other like these are. These need to be soldered to each
9:51
other because these are supposed to be all for 5 volts.
9:58
So, we're just feeding off the 5 volts coming in for these. And it also goes to
10:04
be in on the MP3 player. So, that's our plus 5 volts.
10:14
So, what I've done now is added an extra source connection for the plus 5V feed
10:20
going to VN of the MP3 player. I've also added for pin 12 here, that's point E
10:27
that traces back to the line for the out pin of the pier sensor. Again, I used the yellow headers for my
10:35
prototype shield board that run from pins 6 through 12. And pin 12 is labeled
10:41
as point E in the drawing.
10:47
I just decided to put the group of plus 5V red header pins that we can see here
10:53
on the shield board. I just put it here, although it's not shown on the drawing
10:59
here, but we're feeding in from the 5 volts here. So, it'll all be 5 volts
11:05
like I said earlier for those red jumper wires to the red header pins, then to VN
11:11
on the MP3 player. So, next what I need to do is that I
11:19
need to connect the wires from the pier sensor. So, this VCC is going to be a
11:25
red wire. The out is going to be a yellow wire and the ground is going to
11:30
be a black wire. And the VCC wire or red wire traces back to what I've labeled as
11:37
point F on the drawing. And F goes to that plus 5V supply, which will be the
11:43
red header pins that are not shown in the drawing currently. The outwire or
11:48
yellow wire traces back to what I've labeled as point E on the drawing. And E
11:54
goes to the pin 12 connection of the Arduino, which is on the group of yellow
11:59
header pins that was added to the board earlier. And then ground or the black wire traces
12:07
back to what I've labeled as points G on the drawing. And these points go to our
12:13
common ground pins on the shield board. And those are these groups of black 90°
12:18
angle header pins that we installed from before. We're using two or three right
12:24
now. And we'll have a fourth one available for that ground pin.
12:41
I also forgot to mention earlier that these pins here, I made sure that they
12:47
weren't going to hit anything on the Arduino. So, I have this other Arduino
12:54
board here. So, this is going to be placed kind of it like this. Once we
13:00
install the other pins along these rails here, they're going to fit inside
13:06
uh these uh holes here. And then we'll pin them.
13:12
We'll slide them through those holes. And they'll rest about so tall off this
13:18
Arduino board. And I just needed to make sure that
13:23
these other pins that I didn't plan on having there that I
13:29
just recently decided to put uh there weren't going to hit anything
13:35
like hit this or I don't know if they were going to hit something like that, but it seems to be just fine and
13:41
nothing's going to be in the way. So, that's something that you need to consider when you're creating a project
13:48
like this. Uh, just make sure that you have proper placement of pins and that
13:54
other things aren't going to hit or touch other things.
14:04
I just wanted to go over this again about connect doing these uh DuPont connectors. So, here I have a
14:12
a female end, and
14:18
there's a name for it.
14:24
This is an SYP female end. So, it has the female end
14:31
there. And this is what it looks like here.
14:36
There's a picture of it right there. So that's an SYP female pin.
14:44
Looks like that. So what I do is I take I have my wire and I take
14:53
about I don't know an eighth of an inch or so off the end.
15:00
I give it a little twist at the end. If it's a frayed wire like that, which
15:06
you know, you're normally working with a stranded wire. So then I take
15:14
this tool here, which is specifically made for doing this kind of work for
15:21
connecting like DuPont connectors or these uh SYP connectors, whatever you
15:26
call them. So for in this case, I use the 22 to 24 gauge. It's the smallest
15:33
one on here. And I take that
15:39
SYP female pin. And I stick it in there. And I take I stick it in there with my
15:46
left hand, my left fingers, and I clamp down with my right hand. But
15:51
I'm not I'm not, you know, clamping real hard on the handle. I'm just doing it so
15:58
slightly to where I can hold that female pin in there like this
16:05
where it's just
16:11
just in there where it's kind of sticking out
16:17
like that where you want those tabs almost flush to the side of the face of
16:23
the tool like that. where it's just flush like that. And what we're going to do is we're going to stick that wire in
16:30
there. I have to get the wire now cuz I dropped it.
16:35
I have that wire. And no, it's already frayed again.
16:42
So, I'll twist it just so it's not so frayed at the end. It doesn't need to be
16:48
perfect. So, it's sitting in there flush. I'll take this wire and stick it
16:54
in there until the sheathing of the wire butts up against the face of
17:01
that tool there. And then I'll give it a good squeeze on the tool
17:07
to kind of clamp that wire in there. And then I'll release.
17:13
And right now, this is what it looks like. It clamped onto that
17:20
wire. If you can kind of see it there. I don't know if you can. Let me get a
17:26
better where it's kind of clamped. The first
17:31
part of that female pin connector is clamped around
17:37
those little tiny tabs are clamped around that stranded wire in there. So now we need to clamp these two tabs,
17:45
these larger tabs around the sheathing.
17:51
of the wire, the red wire. So now I'm going to step it up to the 18 to 20
17:59
gauge portion of the tool. It's just a little bit larger than that 22 to 24
18:05
hole that we used. So I'm going to use that one. And I'm going to slide this in there until those tabs are just inside.
18:14
Oops. I'm going to slide it in there until these tabs are just inside that
18:20
tool. It's kind of hard to look at this and then look at the camera to make sure
18:26
everything's there. So, if I rotate the tool around, you can kind of see that those two tabs are just inside there,
18:36
just inside the teeth of that tool. Now I'm going to clamp down on it, but I'm
18:42
not going to I'm just clamping enough to where it kind of seals it a little bit.
18:48
I'm I'm just barely clamping down on it. Now, when it's at that point, that's enough. I don't need to clamp it down as
18:56
hard as I can because I just need So, I release it. I just need it to clamp enough
19:04
to get those tabs to go
19:09
wrap into that uh sheathing. And now now that I'm
19:15
looking at I could have gone a little bit harder. So all I got to do is stick
19:20
it back. Stick it back in there where I had it. Make sure it's where I had it. And I'll
19:28
just clamp it a little bit more. I'm not clamping real hard. I'm just clamping a little bit more and I'll release it. I
19:35
just need to get it enough to where it's clamped into the sheathing
19:45
just so it kind of stays where it needs to be. So, that's all you really need to do. And you might need to adjust
19:56
the uh tabs on here. And I use the end of the tool, which is just like an end
20:04
flat edge that I can use kind of like some pliers. And if you need to adjust, see how that
20:11
width of that pen is a little fatter or wider because I clamped down so hard it
20:19
made it wider than the rest of this. It might be a little bit wider here. So, in
20:25
order to make it
20:32
to where it'll fit into the uh plastic sheathing later, it may
20:39
be a little too wide to fit inside uh the holes of one of these plastic uh
20:48
retainers here when you have to stick that when you have to stick it in here
20:54
later. It might be a little too wide where I had clamped down onto those
20:59
tabs. So, I'll just take this flat end of the tool. And if I need to,
21:06
I'll just kind of not real hard because I don't want to damage anything. I just
21:11
clamp it just a little bit. Oh, it slipped on me. But I'll clamp it just a
21:17
a little bit to where I can get it to where it can slide up in
21:24
I can get it to where it will slide up in this hole more easily for me.
21:30
Okay, we want to get this in this kind of position like this
21:37
and slide that in here like if I can get it to focus like this. I'm
21:46
going to slide it. I can get it in there.
21:52
And we should hear like a a click sound telling us it's all the way in there.
21:57
Sometimes it can be kind of finicky to try to get in there. And then uh
22:05
and it's in like this. Just takes a lot of practice. I'm by no
22:11
means an expert in doing this. I have to take my time every time and I tend to
22:18
mess it up a lot of the times and have to redo it. But just keep practicing at
22:24
it and uh you'll eventually get the hang of it.
22:35
As you can see here, I ended up creating some extensions for the wires coming from the pins of the pier sensor so that
22:42
when I place all the circuitry into the Albot that I am using for the Albot later, the wires will be able to reach
22:48
from the Arduino and its prototype shield board to the pier sensor. All I did was take another 6 to 8 in of the
22:55
same red, yellow, and black wire we were using before and added a three pin female DuPont connector housing that
23:02
could hold all three wires together. Making sure that the order of the wires matched to the Vin, out, and ground pins
23:09
of the pier sensor. That's the red, yellow, and black wires, respectively. I then twisted the wires around each other
23:15
for better wire management. Then I added a three pin male DuPont connector housing at the other end of these three
23:21
wires so that I could connect the single red, yellow, and black wires with the DuPont connectors I made previously. And
23:29
each of those have a single female DuPont connector at their opposite ends to connect to the points on the Arduino
23:35
shield board we discussed earlier for the connection points for the pier sensor.
23:42
Now we need to move on to soldering the header pins that will match to the Arduino Uno from the prototype shield
23:48
board. In my case, I happen to be using green header pins, making sure that I match the number of pins needed to align
23:55
perfectly with the Arduino Uno. To solder the header pins to the prototype shield board, you can use the old header
24:01
pins placed on a breadboard trick to help keep them in place on the shield board to be able to solder them more
24:07
easily. I've demonstrated this trick in a video before when soldering the header pins to the MP3 player that we're using
24:14
for this project here. I believe the title of that video was trick to soldering header pins to a PCB module
24:21
board. I'll leave the link in a card and in the description of this video below if you'd be interested in that. I ended
24:27
up using the tape trick that I showed you earlier in the build, using regular scotch tape to keep the header pins in
24:33
place for me to solder them on the shield board. You can use whatever method you'd like and is easier for you.
24:41
Here's what my Arduino prototype shield board looks like so far after adding the header pins and of course with
24:47
everything else done so far on it. If you've placed the correct number of header pins in the correct locations,
24:54
you should be able to line them up and fit the shield board onto the Arduino.
25:03
You can see here that all my green header pins from the shield board line up and fit into all the female headers
25:09
of the Arduino Uno.
25:38
At this point in the build, we have our Arduino prototype shield board all set up. the header pins ready to go on it.
25:45
We've got the speakers and pier sensor all wired up, connected, and ready to go. Next, we need to move on to creating
25:52
our secondary PCB board or daughter board where we'll connect all the
25:57
components for the solenoids and DC motor to it. From there, that'll be the
26:02
board we'll connect the solenoids and motor. And then we'll create our connections from the daughter board to
26:08
the shield board. Doing this will provide a separation of lower and higher powered components. We'll also connect
26:15
the secondary battery we added back in part four of this build series to the daughter board. Here you see the
26:21
daughter board or Perf board or PCB board that I'm using. Its dimensions are
26:27
3 cm by 7 cm. At this point, I'll need to start explaining the other components
26:33
that I'll need from the prototype circuit on 2D that you see here in the
26:39
background. That brown art box there. I'll transfer the components as I go from the prototype circuit on 2D to this
26:46
daughter board I have in this PCB clamp here in front of us. So, again, referring to our handdrawn schematic,
26:53
this is the daughter board that we'll work on next. This is going to have power coming from the secondary 9volt
26:59
battery. And then we have our 0V reference of that secondary 9volt battery here. This is going to be part
27:06
of the common ground for the entire circuit. And I'm not going to do the connections to the 9volt power supply
27:12
just yet. I'm just going to go straight into putting the components in onto the board. We'll have our labeled X1 and X2
27:20
solenoids here and the X1 plus X1 minus terminals off the X1 solenoid and the X2
27:28
plus and X2 minus terminals off the X2 solenoid. So the plus and minus X1
27:34
terminal points are labeled here and here on the drawing. We have our diode and then we have our MOSFET here. And
27:41
then the plus and minus x2 terminals will go to the labeled points for plus x2 and minus x2 on the schematic diagram
27:49
drawing here. We have our diode and then we have the mosfet for that setup here.
27:55
Then we have our DC motor over here on the drawing. And we labeled M1 and M2
28:00
for the terminals of the motor here. We also have our capacitor across the
28:05
motor. And we see those points on the drawing here. the labels for M1 and M2
28:11
where we want the motor to connect to on the daughterboard. And then we have the MOSFET for the motor control here.
28:19
And even though it's not drawn on here, the capacitor for the DC motor will need to be soldered across the terminals of
28:25
the DC motor. We want to place it as close as we can across the terminals of
28:31
the DC motor. We haven't done that yet, but we will do it later. I've discussed
28:36
why we want to place a capacitor across a DC motor before back in the Scrubberbot project. The discussion of
28:43
this was on step zero of the Scrubberbot project on the Mopbots website. I'll
28:48
leave a link in the description below to that information if you're curious. It's a nice way to get kids excited about
28:54
cleaning the house. So, now I take this off.
29:03
If I'm looking at the handdrawn schematic,
29:08
I'm wanting to put starting with the diode
29:14
at the very bottom. So just kind of looking at it this
29:20
perspective. So I'm starting with this diode here. So I have the cathode of
29:26
that diode at the uh seven column in the
29:32
row B according to the board. So I'll start there and then I have the other
29:38
end of the diode or the anode of the diode at column 7 row F. So, I'll start
29:45
with that and then I'll work my way to uh the MOSFET and then the resistor and
29:53
then I can work on jumper wires and stuff that will go to where I'm wanting a common ground, which I'll probably put
30:01
the common ground and the power here on the board itself
30:08
uh in first just using bare solid core wire on the board. So, let's get to that
30:14
next.
30:20
So, like I said, I'm wanting the positive supply of the 9volt battery to
30:26
come here. I'm just going to choose this pad here.
30:32
And then I'm going to choose this pad here for the uh negative supply of the 9volt battery,
30:39
which will also be connected to the common ground. So, I'm going to go from here to this column of
30:50
or this column of holes here, which is a number two column. So, I want my common
30:59
ground or at least the wire to go across uh that column from this pad to column
31:08
two and that will run the span. Now, all these holes won't be attached to that,
31:13
but I'm going to run a solid wire from this one all the way up to uh this hole
31:20
here, which is column two. And then on the back side of this, if it's a solid
31:26
core wire, it'll run completely on the bottom side
31:33
from here to here. That's column two, what I'm
31:39
calling the front side from here to here and to this pad. And then the
31:46
9volt battery, the negative supply will connect to this pad.
31:51
And then the same for the positive supply on this pad. And I'm using column
31:58
eight on this board. No, column nine on this board. from here
32:05
all the way up to there. And again, I'm using a solid core wire, which we'll see
32:12
in a minute. Uh we'll see how all that works.
32:17
Okay, I've gone ahead and soldered the two solid wires that I said that I would use as my positive and negative supply
32:23
lines for the secondary 9V battery of the Albot. Looking at this first copper
32:29
pad here, this is for the positive supply. I cut about an 8 inch length of red solid core wire, inserted one end of
32:36
it through a through hole on column 9, row B, then inserted the other end of the wire through a through hole on
32:43
column 9, row W, and soldered the wire in place there. I left a piece of red
32:49
sheathing on the wire in place just as a color reference for myself as I put the
32:55
components on the board later to let me know that this is the positive supply. You don't have to do this, but it can be
33:02
helpful. As for the negative supply, I did the same setup to it as I did for the
33:09
positive supply. I cut about an 8 in length of black solid core wire. I
33:14
inserted one end of it in a through hole on column two, row B, and then threaded
33:20
the other end of the solid core wire in a through hole on column 2, row W, and
33:27
soldered that wire in place there. I left a piece of black sheathing of the
33:32
wire in place just as a color reference for myself to let me know that this is the negative supply. Again, you don't
33:39
have to do this, but it can be helpful. What I'm going to do is kind of work my
33:45
way from the bottom view of the daughter board I'm working on on the drawing of the schematic diagram, starting with the
33:51
first diode we see there for the first MOSFET to one of the solenoids. I'll grab the diode first from the breadboard
33:58
prototype on 2D and place its leads into the through holes I've designated for it on the board, making sure that I place
34:05
the diode in its correct orientation as described on the diagram.
34:10
So, I've placed the cathode side lead at the through hole on column 7, row B,
34:16
toward the copper pads, and I've placed the anode side lead at the through hole on column 7, row F.
34:26
Next, I want to take the MOSFET associated with the diode that I've just set on the board. This is an RFP 30N06
34:35
MOSFET, and we need to make sure that we place it in the correct orientation of
34:40
which you can see where I've labeled for the gate, drain, and source pins in the drawing.
34:46
Looking at the MOSFET directly with its labeling facing towards us or the drain flange or metal tab with the hole in it
34:53
facing away from us, we can point out the gate, drain, and source leads.
35:03
So on the drawing, I made it to where it goes drain, gate, source, but the pins
35:08
of the diagram goes gate, drain source. So even though it looks like the diode
35:14
will go to an outer pin or lead of the MOSFET here according to the drawing, I
35:19
need the anode of the diode to go to the drain of the MOSFET. So in actuality, it
35:24
will go to the center pin of the physical MOSFET, but I've drawn it as if it goes to an outer pin of the MOSFET
35:30
for convenience in the drawing. So, we really need to pay attention to what the spec sheet of the MOSFET tells us, what
35:37
the drawing here is telling us, and how we're connecting our components on the
35:42
board. Just know that the anode of the diode needs to go to the middle pin, the
35:47
drain pin of the physical MOSFET, not to one of the outer pins. Pay attention to
35:52
the spec sheet representation of the MOSFET I've drawn here or on the actual spec sheet of the RFP 30N06,
36:01
not to the orientation of the labeling of the pins of the MOSFET on the drawing I made of the board again. So the middle
36:08
pin is the drain pin. So it needs to be in line with the anode of the diode. I'm
36:13
placing the drain pin, the middle pin of the MOSFET in line with the diode at the
36:18
through hole of column 7 at row G. So the source pin is at column 8 row G and
36:25
the gate pin is at column 6 row G.
36:31
So it needs to be in line with that diode. And I'll show
36:41
so we can see I'm making that middle drain pin of the MOSFET in line
36:47
with the diode here. And this is the anode of
36:53
the diode going to the middle pin or drain pin of that MOSFET.
37:05
Now I'm going to move on and transfer the 10 kiloohm resistor that was connected to the gate of the MOSFET that
37:12
we just transferred to the PCB board and place this resistor back in line with the gate of that MOSFET again on the
37:20
board. So again, this resistor will need to go to the gate of the MOSFET we just
37:25
placed on the board. We said the gate of the MOSFET will be the left pin of the MOSFET when looking at the front side of
37:32
the MOSFET. This pin here. So, I need one lead of the resistor to go in line
37:38
with the gate. I'll place it in a through hole next to it. That'll be at column 5, row G. And I'll place the
37:45
other lead of the resistor in the through hole at column one, row G, where that end will be soldered to the common
37:52
ground solid wire we established under the bottom side of this board earlier.
37:57
So instead of putting this lead of the resistor in line with the gate of the MOSFET, I've placed it next to it and
38:04
I'll make the connection in the direction that it is. And the other end of this resistor will eventually get
38:10
connected to the negative supply rail of the 9-volt battery or common rail on the bottom side of this daughter board. If I
38:17
turn the board over, we can see that this is that lead of the resistor and it will be soldered to that negative rail
38:23
here. And then the next thing to do is the source lead. For the source leads, I
38:29
was using a green color on the handdrawn schematic diagram. So, I'll just go ahead and use a green 22 gauge solid
38:36
core wire as my jumper wire from that source pin to the negative supply.
38:43
So, now what I've done is I've placed my green solid core wire in line with the source pin of the MOSFET at column 8,
38:51
row H. And I've placed the other end of this green jumper wire in the through hole at column one, row H, where this
38:58
end will be tied or soldered to the negative supply. And that's where that source pin goes for our green jumper
39:05
wire. What I'll do now is continue this process with the second MOSFET with the diode, resistor, and jumper wire for it
39:13
just like we did to this one. This will be for the second solenoid. So this next
39:18
one will be done exactly the same except the diode will be placed with its cathode at row J and its anode at row N
39:27
both along column 7 on the board. The MOSFET will be placed with its gate, drain, and source pins along columns 6,
39:35
7, and 8 respectively on row O on the board. The resistor will be placed next
39:42
to the MOSFET at column 5, row O, and its other lead at column 1, row O. And
39:49
then the green jumper wire for the source pin of this next MOSFET will go from column 8, row P, to column 1, row
39:58
P. I'm also going to go ahead and place the IRF840
40:04
MOSFET for the DC motor onto the board. It's set up similarly to the ones for
40:09
the solenoids. I'll place the gate, drain, and source pins at columns 6, 7,
40:15
and 8, respectively. at row V. I'll go ahead and place the 10 kiloohm resistor
40:21
for it next to its gate pin at column 5, row V, and its other lead at column 1,
40:28
row V. I'll also connect a green jumper wire from the source pin at column 8,
40:34
row W, to column 1, row W. So, I'll go ahead and do that next.
40:41
[Music] Heat.
40:57
Heat.
41:14
[Music] Okay, here's what the board for the
41:20
solenoids and DC motor looks like now up to this point. Don't mind the capacitor there on the board. During all the
41:26
excitement of putting components on the board and soldering things, I mistakenly soldered the capacitor onto the board
41:33
instead of across the DC motor terminals. I did this because I was
41:38
using my own drawing as a reference, but realized later that I had drawn the capacitors shown on the board in the
41:45
drawing where the motor terminals were to go instead of showing it across the terminals of the motor.
41:52
So here we can see where our positive supply will come in to the pad here. And the solid core wire that was soldered
41:58
there for the positive supply on the board. The diode's cathode is soldered to that positive supply wire on the
42:05
underside of the board. And the anode of the diode runs to the drain of the first
42:10
RFP 3006 MOSFET. There's two of these MOSFETs, each for a separate solenoid.
42:17
At the source pin of the MOSFET, I've added a green solid core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper
42:23
wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. I've taken a 10 kiloohm resistor and have soldered one
42:30
of its leads to the gate of the MOSFET and soldered the other lead of the resistor to the negative supply of the
42:36
board. If I flip the board over, we can see where that negative supply is located. Noting the black sheathing
42:44
still left on that wire as a reference to the negative supply. We can also see
42:49
where the positive supply is located on the board. Noting the red sheathing still left on the positive supply wire
42:57
as a reference to the positive supply.
43:05
Flipping the board back over to the component side, we can now look at the setup for the next diode on the board
43:10
that is oriented in similar fashion as the previous one. Its cathode connected to the positive supply of the board and
43:17
its anode soldered to the drain of the second RFP30 N06 MOSFET.
43:28
At the source pin of this MOSFET, I've added a green solid core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper
43:35
wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. I've taken a 10 kiloohm resistor and have added one of
43:42
its leads to the gate of this second MOSFET and soldered the other lead of this resistor to the negative supply of
43:49
the board. Now, moving on to the IRF840
43:54
MOSFET for the DC motor. Again, you can see here that I had mistakenly soldered
44:00
this 0.1 microfarad capacitor here. That's meant to be soldered across the terminals of the DC motor. I'll desolder
44:07
this off the board later. I'll actually solder a JST connector on this board for the motor connection later in the build.
44:15
What I'll do is have one of the terminals of the JST connector go to the drain pin of this MOSFET. And the same
44:22
pin will make the connection for one of the two wires coming from the DC motor.
44:27
That connection is labeled as point M2 on the handdrawn schematic diagram. The
44:33
motor will have the 0.1 microfarad capacitor across its terminals. And the
44:38
other wire of the motor will make a connection to the other pin of the JST connector. This is labeled as point M1
44:46
on the drawing. and that will connect to the positive supply of the board.
44:51
As for the source pin of the IRF840 MOSFET, I've connected a green solid
44:57
core wire that's soldered at the source. And that jumper wire connects the source to the negative supply of the board. And
45:04
then I've taken a 10 koohm resistor and have soldered one of its leads to the gate of this MOSFET and soldered the
45:12
other lead of this resistor to the negative supply of the board.
45:22
Okay, earlier in all the excitement, I realized that I had put
45:31
the capacitor on the board and I didn't want it on the board. I just wasn't paying attention. I was too busy looking
45:38
at uh the schematic here. That's probably why I didn't draw it on
45:44
here originally, this capacitor, because I needed the capacitor to go directly across the
45:52
terminals of the motor. I want them to get as close I want to get this capacitor as close to the uh motor the
46:02
DC motor terminals as possible. So, now that I think about it, that's probably
46:08
why I didn't draw the capacitor in this rough draft of a schematic for this
46:15
project here. But just know that this capacitor here, although it does go
46:21
across the two motor terminals, M1 and M2, we want to get
46:27
the capacitor as close
46:32
to the motor terminals as we can. We want the
46:39
capacitor to be across like right up against this back end of this motor
46:46
where the terminals will go directly to
46:51
the terminals of the capacitor will go directly to the terminals of the uh motor. Now, this was the capacitor I
46:59
just took out of the board here, and it needs to go as close as it can. Now,
47:06
this one I'm not going to use it cuz the the terminals are too short now. But
47:11
I'll get another capacitor. And we want this capacitor to be
47:19
like such. I want it really close to the motor uh terminals. So, I'll get another
47:26
0.1 microfarad just like this one. And uh I'll end up putting the terminals
47:34
across the terminals of the motor just like that. But like I said, I removed this
47:40
capacitor. That's that
47:46
capacitor there. I removed it from where we had it before
47:51
on this board. And so it's gone. And now this jumper
48:00
wire, I don't need it. Although, uh, I do have this end of this jumper
48:06
wire, uh, helping me to connect between one of
48:12
the terminals of that plug,
48:18
this terminal here. I'm having this orange jumper wire now one side of it
48:23
help me connect from this terminal
48:29
to the this that's the terminal there the
48:35
jumper is in between here and all that needs to connect to that center pin of
48:41
the MOSFET which is the drain pin. So that the other side of that jumper
48:48
was right here. I just cut it off right down as close as I could get to
48:54
the board so it's not in the way. So, the jumper is really not performing a
49:01
typical jumper wire function except for helping me connect that terminal of this
49:07
connector pin where the motor will connect in here later to the uh drain
49:14
pin or center pin of this MOSFET. So, that's all that jumper wire is doing.
49:26
wire is doing. So, the only thing different now is that capacitor is no longer on the board. I did not want it
49:33
on there. I just wasn't paying attention. Uh, so we don't need the capacitor on
49:40
the board. We need it as close as we can get or directly across the terminals of
49:45
the motor. So, that's the only thing I I've updated on this board here.
49:51
And so the next thing I'm going to do is connect the capacitor across the
49:56
terminals of the motor. And uh
50:03
we'll get into some other the other stuff here.
50:12
Okay. I've gone ahead and soldered these other JST connectors to the board. Those white connectors you see. Starting from
50:19
the right side, we can see that there's a two pin JST connector. That connector
50:24
is for the X2 solenoid to be connected to. Its pins are soldered at rows C and
50:31
D on column 4. The middle two pin JST connector is for the X1 solenoid to be
50:38
connected to. Its pins are soldered at rows K and L, also on column 4. And the
50:46
left three pin JST connector is for the wire connections we'll make later for each of the gates of the MOSFETs. The
50:53
points labeled H, J, and N highlighted in yellow on the handdrawn schematic
50:59
diagram shown on your screen. That connector is to connect each gate to its
51:05
corresponding connection onto the Arduino shield board we made in section one of part six of this build, the
51:13
previous video to this one. So the labels H, J, and N on the drawing
51:18
correspond to the three pins of the three pin JST connector. And those pins
51:24
will get a wire connector we'll make later in the build plugged to them,
51:29
which we'll make connections to pins 7, 8, and 9 of the Arduino.
51:35
Next, I need to make all the jumper wire connections to the JST connectors. Later, I'll go ahead and solder a 0.1
51:42
microfarad capacitor across the terminals of the DC motor. And I got a new capacitor here because the terminals
51:49
of the other one were too short. So, this is the capacitor that I'm going to use.
51:56
Let's go ahead and get some work done. [Music]
52:17
[Applause] [Music]
52:38
Heat [Music]
52:53
Heat. Heat.
53:00
[Music]
53:15
Heat. Heat.
53:21
[Music]
53:30
[Music]
53:39
[Applause]
53:45
Okay, I have these connectors here. According to the drawing schematic,
53:52
this would be for plus x2 and minus x2. They go that's for the
53:59
x2 uh labeled solenoid. So these terminals
54:07
with the help of this yellow jumper wire and this yellow jumper wire. This one's attached to this pin. This yellow jumper
54:15
wire is attached to this pin. And I go across the diode here.
54:22
This is for solenoid X2. This one's for solenoid X1. Again, this terminal
54:30
is in line with this yellow jumper wire. This terminal goes to this yellow jumper
54:38
wire. And these terminals are go are across
54:44
this diode here. And then this three pin connector here
54:50
is for our H JN
54:56
uh points on the schematic the drawn the drawn handdrawn schematic.
55:03
So if I start at the H pin here, this pin is connected to this yellow jumper
55:10
wire here. And the end of this yellow jumper wire underneath the board is
55:15
connected to this uh terminal of the resistor which is also connected to the
55:23
gate pin of this MOSFET. This middle pin here represents our
55:32
J point or point J on the board in the drawn schematic. And that pin is
55:38
connected to this yellow jumper wire which is connected to this terminal of
55:44
this resistor which is connected to the gate of this MOSFET. And this pin here
55:50
represents point N on our handdrawn schematic. And
55:56
it's connected to this yellow jumper wire which loops over to here and loops
56:02
back around and connects to this uh terminal of this resistor here. And
56:08
again that resistor is attached to this gate to the gate of this MOSFET. So next
56:15
I'm going to So that means that this board is prepared
56:22
uh at least to have the two solenoids and the connections to the Arduino. We
56:29
still need to put the power supply on here. And we still need to Well, next
56:37
we're going to put the capacitor across the terminals of the DC
56:45
motor. So next I'm going to take this DC motor and I'm going to solder
56:55
the capacitor the 0.1 microfarad capacitor across the two terminals of this motor. And here again
57:05
is that capacitor. So I'm going to do that next.
57:17
[Music]
57:25
[Music]
57:33
Okay, now I got the capacitor across
57:38
the terminals of the motor. I got a few burn spots here, but that's okay. I
57:44
didn't I don't think I ruined anything. So, now the next thing to do is to put
57:52
connectors on the ends of the wires of the motor terminals. And I need to
57:59
make the wires for the connections for
58:04
the points on
58:09
for our HJN points on the board here. So I need to make the wire connect the uh
58:17
wires and then put the connectors three pin connectors on the ends of those
58:22
wires for both this board and for the board on the Arduino. So again now the
58:29
next thing to do is to put connectors on the ends of the wires of the motor terminals. And I need to make the wire
58:35
connector for the connections to the points H, J, and N on the three pin JST
58:41
connector. This will connect the gates of the MOSFETs to pins seven, eight, and nine of the Arduino. All that will have
58:48
to be done in the next video, though, because this one has already gotten pretty long. This has been section two
58:54
of part six. So, the next video will be section three for part six. I greatly
59:00
appreciate your attention and participation throughout this video and for this Albbot build series so far.
59:06
I'll see you on the next one. And remember to keep at it and stay motivated. Thanks for watching.

How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build

motbots.com

Arduino HW-201 Infrared Sensor Tutorial: Navigate the World of Object Detection!

Arduino LED Tutorial: Parallel Connections for Brilliant Illumination!

Power Supply Circuit Build - Part 1 - The Ultimate DIY 3220-Point Breadboard

How Zelenograd Is Building the Next Generation of Russian Semiconductor Tech (Interview)

Zelenograd Nanotechnology Cente - Russia's 350 nm Lithography Machine

Up next in 10

How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 6 (Section II): PCB Circuit Build

motbots.com