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Welcome back to Next Level Rides

In today's episode, we're going to be working on the One series. We took it out for some data logging

We ended up running into some small issues. I'll insert some clips here

Do you need third gear or fourth? Let's try a fourth probably

You're not going to get distraction in third. Great. Yeah, if I yell at you let off. Okay

Ready? Yep. Long story short, the car was running out of fuel or fuel pump, so it's pretty efficient making some good power

This is the datalog that we ended up having on the day in question, and yeah, without a doubt it's losing fuel pressure

We're going to show you the upgrade that we're going to be doing today, and, uh, and, and, um

Yeah, so stay tuned, we're gonna get out it. So Tony got blue balled by the car

finally went out, data logged, got to nine pounds, it was happy, it was okay, things were going good

Went to go to Map 2, bam, low pressure for the fuel. So now we have a Walbro 450 that we're gonna throw in there

Just to go a little bit not as ghetto, we are using the BMP plug and play fittings

just to ensure no leaks, lightweights, kind of take the ghettoness out of it, we're just gonna DIY a pump

Basically this fitting, what it's gonna do is it's gonna go right onto the top of the fuel pump here

So it's gonna keep a tight radius, a tight 90 degree radius to a hose

Reason being is we're gonna be retaining not only the factory bucket for the Venturi

but we're gonna be retaining the factory top hat. You can get away sometimes with the hose

if it comes off and you make a tight bend or an ass or whatever

there's no point doing that. You could end up putting it in, it could crush. So using the BMP fitting

ideal and we're gonna use this fat boy fuel pump here from it says TI automotive

but I'm led to believe it's a Walro it's made in USA it smells like freedom the

plan of attack is we're gonna install some freedom into the fuel pump bucket and

then let the German I was gonna say bald horses but the German

Clydesdales horse horses German horse horses German horse yes we're gonna the horses free and hopefully make 20 pounds on pump gas with our peasant fuel

We're going to pull apart the factory fuel pump. This is just a spare that we had laying

around. We still have the factory one in the car. Right here you can see you have a little

bit of flexibility in between. Where it starts getting tight is where it's stuck together

I already popped one. You're kind of just kind of follow around. As you see it get tight

we're going to heat it up with a heat gun. Apply a little bit of pressure to kind of pull it apart

That'll allow us to pull this piece out. We're going to retain this piece. We'll throw it back in afterwards

And then on the inside, we also have kind of a centering bracket

Same thing, it's going to be glued and we'll show you when we get there. Same process, we're just going to heat it up with a heat gun, pry it out, and then when it comes to reassembly

zip ties are actually really fuel resistant, so we'll just zip tie back in place

I like how you've got. Son of them. How the f f f- did I break it with a plastic pry bar

Don't tensile strength. We got the pump out. I accidentally broke a corner of the actual bucket out

It's not going to be the end of the world. What I might end up doing is get my sacrificial

soldering iron and plastic walled it a little bit This is going to be generally high density polyethylene So although it strong it can still break What I found that helped me quite a bit is heat up

where the sides of the fuel pump bracket attached to the bucket here. So as you can see from here

attaches here. And what I did is I took a flathead. I worked it into the corner. So just wiggle

it into the corner and then eventually you can start to kind of rock it about. bit to where it loosens up. I took a pride tool. I put it inside there. Eventually it

will crack and break free. Crack is scary but it ended up working out pretty good

While Tony reweld the bucket back together with plastic, we're just taking the old piece

off here. So it's kind of like push tabs that you've seen everywhere else. One here, one here

one here. You're going to get two over and kind of just wiggle the pride tool in there

my hand stop shaking and gently push it over. Then it'll slide on

I'm just gonna slide it all the way to the bottom to make sure we don't have any movement in the pump

So that's all we're gonna do for that. We will put the filter on, snip this so we can plug it back

to the factory plugs. Couple of the things to do still, but this is getting closer

to be ready to go back in. Taylor is mentioning that when we go to reinstall it

the biggest thing is you're gonna want this to sit as low as possible

Reason being is the factory pump, here or actually if we put it next to this one you can see where the top of the pump is here

as opposed to the new wall drill if it doesn't go without saying we can't have it sitting further up

where it would normally be and this pump is a tiny bit smaller now when you end up getting rid of

the factory pump you get rid of this little venturi thing we're not completely certain on what it

or the benefits from it but mostly these aftermarket pumps end up getting rid of it so for this harness

because this pump is dead. We're gonna cut it longer. We're gonna chuck this in the garbage

So because this has a bigger strainer than the factory one, which kind of sat upwards

and into the pump, you need to cut this out a little bit to make room for it

It's gonna make it a lot easier to put the pump in. Easy way to do it is kind of take just regular electrical tape

The thickness of the electrical tape is where you're gonna cut. So we're gonna cut along here on the top

down in a bit of a pie to level it out with a small piece. at the bottom we're just going to cut the thickness of the electrical tape to make you get rid of this

yes so just around the outside of this to get rid of it for those of you that don't know what this is

this is essentially like a one-way so on the inside you see that little bit of a grommet now what

that does is in the event that the bucket is running a bit lower you're a little bit low on the

fuel this will move when the fuel is slashed to ensure that there's a little bit in the bucket

and then in the event you end up driving a little bit harder you'll always have a tiny

bit of fuel in the bottom i don't know if taylor knows what it's

smells like to be burning electrical tape so after you listen to Taylor and outline

it with electrical tape listen to Tony who's done this for way too long and peel

that off so you don't assault your brain cells with chemical after you've cut it

and burned your arm from all the molten plastic this should relatively easily pop out

this would be a bit of a transition in between bucketed and bucketless only because you've actually

modified the bucket so you're retaining i would say a decent portion of the bucket but for obvious

reasons so that the strainer fits we needed to modify it last thing we ended up doing was t it out and then we just trimmed a little notch here for the bottom of the fuel pump where the filter is Now the one thing to keep in mind is this little retainer lock nut thing This will be a bit of a pain

So all we did is we took a 5 mil socket. Give it a little bit of pressure and it'll usually go on to the nub and give it a little tap and you're good

Now the way we decided to orientate, as Taylor would say, this pump is there's the three feet

here. So the longest one we ended up putting towards this portion right there. So when you go to

actually wedge it in, you'll put the one foot just underneath, make sure that the strainer

doesn't get caught on anything and then slowly walk the other two ears in. Now the reason we

ended up cutting the notch is because when we go to put it in there, that's where the bottom part

is going to sit. When you put it in, this little triangle piece, you're going to want to work it all the way

because that's what's actually going to be holding the pump in place. So work it all the way down

Then you'll see that it's going to sit right in the ridge or right in the notch

And then you're going to have a stable fuel pump. Next step, I'm going to use the light so you guys can see it a little bit better, or at least from the inside

You can see the shadow of that post there that's holding the fuel pump

It's right about here. You could use some type of adhesive or epoxy to affix it the way it was prior

What I'm going to try to do is I'm going to try to drill two little holes

so that we can route a zip tie through it, pull it taut, and should be good

We ended up with the drill and zip tie method. So you can see my first failed attempt

Turns out when you end up drilling a hole, you'll end up getting it, but as soon as you try to walk it up, it'll push the whole thing up

We'll move on to a nicer side, so you can slowly or very lightly see

see the outline of the triangle portion on that side and same with that

Now the zip ties, they're not going to be in anything's way, but you can see where on the inside

they're going to end up holding the fuel pump quite taught. We're going to put this back on top. I believe it goes something like that

We're going to crimp the old connector on. So if you didn't see on the sacrificial pump

we have the factory connector here. Once we get it in there, we will take it for a data lot

and we will show you guys the difference between a big pump and a tired OEM pump

Installing the pump wasn't all that bad if you've ever replaced a fuel pump in the past

or if you have a slight amount of mechanical knowledge and as long as you disconnect the battery

you should be good to go. We had to reinvent the wheel just a hair so we ended up having to cut the zip ties

because they were sticking out a bit too far and just put the zip ties on the insert

side. I ended up plastic welding the cap back on. So just cut it with a zip tie and redid it

Food for thought, just make sure that the zip ties you use are going to be strong enough

that they're not going to loosen up over time with a little bit of vibration. And it should be good to go. Anytime you end up opening the fuel system, you're going to need to prime it

So what I would generally recommend and do on most of my project vehicles is cycle the ignition

a couple of times. Two, three times should be enough. You'll generally hear where the fuel

pump is starting to push fuel up into the line because you will end up having some air pockets

It will start to sound different. After two or three primes you should be good to go. Then you can

fire it up. It might burp a little bit or hesitate a little bit as it's warming up, but it's simply

just working out all the air bubbles that you've now induced into the fuel line. We took it out last

night for some pulls and some data logs. We're going to show you the clips right now. M We ready Yep Feel different to our radio Wow That was

It's 167 pounds. We go wherever. So, Fuel Pump is doing field pump thingies

That was f*** quick. Holy shit. That's only 16. Hit the gas

I just want to make sure it's not sticking. Yep. Yep. Seems like me from this truck

You know? Ready? You hear it? You hear it? Oh

During shift? Wra. Watt! Yeah. Oh. Ready? Yep. As a reminder, here's what the fueling look like previous on the stock pump

Here's what it looks like with the upgraded Balboro 450. As you can see, it's going to have a lot more fuel pressure up top

It's not going to be dropping off normally. And once we end up dialing it in and have the trims appropriate, we should be good to go to turn it up a little bit more

We're hoping for about 20 pounds on pump gas and I think this pump's going to be well within our limits

The car felt pretty good. You can definitely notice with a big Walbro pump, especially getting decent

voltage, it's going to be a bit whiny. Back in the day, I used to call it a wine bro. It's no different

with this even with all the insulation and a BMW. But overall, it felt pretty good and I'm

fairly certain that we're going to be good to go for now. Could you have gone out and spent

three, five, six, seven hundred US on a fuel pump, especially somebody that's already done

the work to integrate the bigger pump into a bucket. Sure, but this is going to end up increasing

the flow a fair bit with a bucket list system. It does increase flow. So you kind of get

rid of the restrictions that you do get with a bucketed system. And on top of it, we did it for

a fraction of the cost. Overall, the car is fantastic right now. Again, the fuel supply is going to be

pretty adequate for what we're aiming for at least this year. I'm sure it'll hit that seven mark

We'll put it on the lie detector and we'll do that in due time

If you want to upgrade the fuel pump at home and do a bit of a DIY, of course you could

change a few things that we ended up doing. I'll include all the links and the parts that we ended up using

So in the event that you wanted to tackle this at home by yourself, you'll have everything

at your disposal, all the links. You can purchase it all and you're pretty much good to go

I know I promise you guys a breakdown video of overall costs

To be honest, I've kind of delayed it a bit because me and myself, I don't want to start seeing all the bills and have it tally up and you see the final number and you realize where the hell of all that money go

But it is coming. I will end up doing it. I'll bring it to you guys and we'll probably include some waistgate clips or pulls or something to keep everyone's attention because just throw numbers is a little bit boring

Stay tuned. I'm going to start working on that. And as always, feel if you like and subscribe

We'll see you guys on the next one. Good car. Emma, we're trying to fill them

Yeah. Let's do a staring contest