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How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator - Part 1: Motion Sensing
Dec 21, 2024
This is the first video (Part 1) of a series of tutorials on how to build an OwlBot.
In this project we’re going to be performing the initial steps of what will eventually be the OwlBot. The OwlBot will be a device (robot/animatronic) that can be used as a bird intimidation tool to scare away pesky birds in the yard, around the house or barn, at restaurants, or in trees, bushes, and gardens. Hence, the phrase, “The Bird Intimidator”.
During the prototype process of making the OwlBot, I will be using the help of a previous project that was built, The Ultimate DIY 3220-Point Breadboard (TUDIY), to help in the prototyping process. I've provided the links to this project below. If you didn't make your own 3220-point breadboard, then don't worry! You can use just about any ole' generic breadboard you got laying around and still participate in this project. You can obtain everything you need to follow along on this build at the given links below.
Video for Our Website Page: "How to Make an OwlBot: The Bird Intimidator – Part 1: Motion Sensing"
Page URL: https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-1-motion-sensing/
Description: This is a supplemental video for a post made on our website.
Website: https://motbots.com
PARTS LIST:
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-1-motion-sensing/#Parts_List
TOOLS USED:
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-1-motion-sensing/#Tools_Used_in_Project_Optional
CODE FOR OWLBOT (Motbots):
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-1-motion-sensing/#Programming_the_Arduino_to_Sense_Motion
CODE FOR OWLBOT (GitHub):
https://github.com/Motbots/owlbot-remote
Possible Errors in Code and How to Fix Them:
https://motbots.com/owlbot-part-1-motion-sensing/#Possible_Errors_and_How_to_Fix_Them
The Ultimate DIY 3220-Point Breadboard:
https://motbots.com/the-ultimate-diy-3220-point-breadboard/
PLAYLIST (The Ultimate DIY 3220-Point Breadboard):
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXoXZro7IN0e-cALhowH6yLL0Qi-3BJhe
🦉 Fake Great Horned Owl Decoy:
https://amzn.to/41AppH5
🖱️ Motbots Desk Mouse Pad:
https://motbots.printify.me/product/15039437/motbots-desk-mouse-pad
EARNINGS DISCLAIMER:
Motbots may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase something through recommended links.
Chapters:
0:00 - 0:39 - Intro
0:40 - 2:24 - Plastic Great Horned Owl Figure
2:25 - 3:50 - What We'll Be Adding to the Owl Figure to Make an OwlBot
3:51 - 7:35 - Items Used for Prototype for Part One of Build
7:36 - 9:29 - The Ultimate DIY 3220-Point Breadboard
9:30 - 13:41 - Step 1: Connecting 9V Power to the Breadboard
13:42 - 17:44 - Step 2: Setting up the Arduino for Power
17:45 - 23:48 - Step 3: Setting up 5V Power From the Arduino
23:49 - 35:21 - Step 4: Connecting the PIR Sensor
35:22 - 37:15 - Copy and Paste the Arduino Code
37:16 - 44:14 - Review of the Code
44:15 - 45:00 - Connecting the Arduino to Compile and Upload the Code
45:01 - 45:13 - Compiling and Uploading the Code
45:14 - 45:43 - Observing the Printouts to the Serial Monitor
45:44 - 47:31 - Overview of What We've Done so Far for Part 1
47:32 - 48:34 - What's Next
#motbots #motivatedrobotics #owlbot #bird #intimidator #owl #greathornedowl #circuit #prototype #ultimate #diy #breadboard #arduino #arduinoproject #motionsensor #diyrobotics #animatronics #commissionearned
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0:05
welcome to how to make an owl bot the bird Intimidator this is part one of the
0:11
albot project the albot will be a device that can be used as a bird intimidation tool
0:19
to scare away pesky birds or other creatures in your yard around the house
0:24
or Barn at restaurants or in trees bushes and Gardens hence the phrase the
0:30
bird
0:40
Intimidator this that you see here is a 16inch
0:46
long plastic great horned owl and we're going to use this plastic owl as the
0:57
body or structure of our albot project so that part will be done for
1:04
us I found this one on Amazon these work fine I suppose to
1:13
scare away uh creatures around uh your
1:19
property uh you see these quite often when you go to restaurants I was just at a restaurant the other day and saw a few
1:27
of these in an attempt to scare away birds from creating nests around the
1:34
building but uh having this plastic owl staring off
1:42
into space contemplating its life decisions isn't quite what I'm looking for as a bird
1:52
intimidation Tool uh I needed something that uh had a little more POS
1:59
zzz to it had a little more animation to it and I figured that well I can add a
2:07
few things to this plastic owl in order to make it uh a little more a little bit
2:13
more intimidating to the creatures around the property in order to try to make it a little bit more effective than
2:19
just staring at nothing so what I plan on doing is uh to
2:30
add a pier sensor to this plastic owl in order for it to be able to to to detect
2:37
motion and when motion is detected I want it to make owl sounds through an
2:43
MP3 player and a couple of speakers and I
2:49
also wanted to perform various movements obviously
2:54
this thing is a rigid structure its wings are not going to move its head's
3:00
not going to move but we can add a few things to it to help create some movement and we'll do that later on and
3:08
in other steps uh in in the series of this build and uh later on I also wanted to
3:17
of course I want to add some lights to this thing so we'll eventually add a
3:22
couple of red LEDs somewhere around the eyes to have some kind of a red Flash in
3:30
eye effect when motion is detected to help deter uh creatures from building
3:36
their homes or nests around certain areas of the property so this is what
3:42
we're going to use as the owl for the owl bot and I'm going to put it off to the
3:49
side here and you can see in front of you here that I
3:55
have the uh
4:00
items that we will be using for part one of this build for motion
4:06
sensing you can see right here in the middle that we have an Arduino Uno and we're going to use the Arduino to Help
4:14
Us control things like this pier sensor that you can see here and that's all
4:20
we're working on uh for part one is just the motion sensing so we're going to need this uh
4:28
USB cable this one came with the Arduino uh everybody has seen the types
4:35
of USB cables that they come with in order to attach the Arduino to the
4:41
computer to uh upload the code to the microchip we'll also need a breadboard
4:51
this is an 830 point breadboard it's if it's uh preferable to use one of these
4:57
over a 400 point breadboard like this one this is a smaller
5:03
breadboard we want a little bit bigger because we're going to be adding more
5:10
items as we move along in the project uh we're going to need a 9volt
5:18
battery as our power source to power the Arduino need a couple of jumper wires
5:24
these are maleo male jumper wires and need some uh
5:30
male to female jumper wires for the pins on the pier sensor right
5:39
here and in order to connect power or the 9volt battery power we're going to
5:46
need a 9vt battery uh snap
5:52
connector and also one of these uh 12vt
5:58
Jack uh adapters that has the screw terminals on it and that is to be able to install
6:08
these wires from the 9volt battery snap connector to the uh DC adapter here in
6:18
order to provide oops in order to provide power to the Arduino with the 9vt battery later
6:27
on now you could use this setup
6:35
with this adapter and this battery snap connector or you can use and this the
6:42
these two are what I used uh in the description in the steps on
6:49
the website and what I'll be using through this video series for the build
6:55
uh I'll be using these uh cuz these are a little more common but you
7:01
can also use a battery snap connector like this with an adapter on the end of
7:07
it already so all you need to do is just snap your 9vt battery to this and go
7:15
ahead and plug it into that that's easier than uh
7:20
using these I mean this is not difficult you just screw the wires into the
7:26
terminals there but you can use this op option if you'd like it doesn't really
7:33
matter it's up to you for this project I'm not going to be
7:40
using a a generic breadboard such as
7:45
this one I am going to be
7:51
using the ultimate DIY 3220 point
7:57
breadboard that we made in a previous project and if you have not made this or
8:06
you don't have one uh and would like to make one for yourself I'll put the links in the
8:14
description down below in order for you to uh try out this project and you can
8:20
build this it's not difficult at all I give a complete set of instructions on
8:25
our website and I have a complete video series
8:30
on how to build this ultimate DIY 3220 point
8:36
breadboard but if you don't have one of these don't worry you can still use a generic 830 Point breadboard
8:44
such as this one and complete this project just fine but as I said I'm
8:50
going to be using this it's a little easier it has a built-in 9vt battery
8:55
supply with inside this case and all I need to do is make connections to the uh
9:03
binding post here to provide 9volt power to my uh breadboard and flip the switch
9:10
in order to provide that 9vt battery power supply to my breadboard so it's a
9:16
little easier than making these kind of connections and having to use that so
9:21
that's what I'm going to be using so now I just need to move this
9:27
stuff out of the way so now we can go ahead and get started
9:32
on step one connecting 9vt power to the breadboard so as I said I'm using this
9:41
uh ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard it has the built-in 9volt battery power
9:49
supply that power supply comes from these two terminal or binding posts here
9:55
so all I need to do is I need to take a red jumper wire
10:01
and a black jumper wire and make my connections these are male to male jumper
10:08
wires and I'm going to take my red one and I'm going to make or
10:16
insert this male end of this end of the jumper wire into
10:25
the red binding post
10:30
and tighten that down to secure it in
10:40
there and now I'm going to take my black jumper wire and take one end
10:46
of the jumper wire and insert it into the black binding
10:54
post so this is my negative of the supply the black binding
11:02
post and then my positive Supply or my positive 9vt Supply is this red binding
11:09
post so I'm going to take the red jumper wire that I have connected to the red binding post for my 9vt battery supply
11:18
and I'm going to place it into a positive rail
11:23
for my power rail my upper power rails up here I placed it in this
11:30
positive uh rail here so this rail is
11:36
connected and now I'm placing the black jumper wire onto the negative rail
11:43
here now it's only connected up to half of
11:49
these uh points here half of the rail so in order to connect this other half I'll
11:55
need to install some jumper wires here uh
12:01
later I can go ahead and do that now I'm just taking whatever jumper wire
12:09
I have and I'm connecting that jumper wire
12:16
across the center section here in order to connect both sides of the positive
12:24
power supply on the power or on the positive rail there
12:29
and I'll take another one in this case I'll just take a blue jumper wire and
12:35
I'll connect the negative rail like so so now the negative Supply
12:43
rail is connected all the way down all the way throughout on the negative
12:50
side and just to show you I will hold it
12:56
up like this so we can see what we got going on so
13:05
far so that's step one complete so if you were
13:11
using just a generic 830 Point breadboard all you would need to do is
13:18
have your breadboard set aside and take your 9vt
13:25
battery and your battery snap connector and all you need to do for this step is
13:32
just install your battery snap connector to your battery like so that's all you
13:37
need to do for right now for step one moving on to step two setting up the
13:45
Arduino for power so for this step we need
13:51
our DC uh adapter with the screw terminals
14:01
and I need two jumper wires a red one and a black one in this
14:10
case I'm going to take my oh by the way these are also male to male jumper
14:16
wires they have the pins on each end I'm going to take the red one and I'm going
14:23
to take one end and insert it into
14:29
the you can see that there's a positive and a negative label for these two
14:35
different terminals here I'm going to take my red jumper wire and I'm going to place it
14:43
inside the positive terminal there and I'm going
14:49
to take I have a flathead screwdriver here it'll take it'll accept Flathead or
14:56
uh Phillips for this for the kind I have
15:02
here and then I'm going to just tighten it
15:08
down just snug enough where it's not going to come out of there so that's the first
15:15
one now I'm going to take the black jumper wire and
15:23
place one end of it into the negative side or the negative terminal and again
15:31
just take my oops I'm going to take my flathead screwdriver and tighten it
15:44
down and that's ready to go you can see
15:51
here the black on the negative and the red on the
15:57
positive so next next all I need to do is
16:03
take the red the other end of the red jumper wire on my DC power adapter here
16:11
and place it in the positive rail in line with
16:18
this red jumper wire going to my 9vt battery uh Supply the red binding post
16:25
here and I'll take the black jumper wire and place it in the negative power rail
16:33
that goes to this black jumper wire going to the black binding post for the 9vt battery uh power supply
16:41
here and that's all we need to do for step two for setting up the Arduino for
16:50
power again if you're using an 830 Point Bread Board like this
16:56
and not the ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard you have your 9vt battery and
17:05
9vt battery snap connector uh installed on the battery already from step one and
17:12
all you would do is take the red and black wire from the battery snap
17:19
connector and attach it just like we did uh here you'd take the red wire and
17:28
uh install it on the positive side screw terminal and then you'd take the black
17:33
wire and install it on the uh negative side screw terminal just as we did here
17:41
for the jumper wires so now we're moving on to step
17:47
three setting up 5vt power for the Arduino so for this step we need our our
17:54
doino Uno and again we need a couple more
18:00
jumper wires I have a red and black jumper wire again these are M to male
18:06
ends or male to male jumper wires what we need to do is take our red
18:14
jumper wire take one end of the jumper wire and we're going
18:23
to place it into the the 5 vol
18:29
supply of the Arduino so I'm going to take
18:35
this and insert it into the
18:40
5vt pin there on the Arduino and now I'm going to take the
18:46
black jumper wire and place one end on one of these grounds here there's two
18:52
different ones I'm just going to place it into the one next to the 5vt supply of the
19:00
Arduino just like so and
19:08
then I'm just going to take the red jumper wire the other end of the red jumper wire and I'm going to place it
19:17
in one of the points on the positive rail here I'm
19:27
just choosing the D through this far left side here so I'm
19:32
using this positive rail here and I'm going to take the other end
19:39
of the black jumper wire and I'm going to place it next to the red jumper wire
19:45
there but on the negative Supply on the power rail
19:53
here again these this uh this side of the power rail
19:59
this side of the power rail here is isolated from this side so again we'll
20:05
need to make a couple of connections using jumper wires as we did here in
20:10
order to connect the full length for both sides of the positive
20:16
and negative Supply on this power rail here on this far left breadboard so I'm just going to
20:24
choose I'll choose another yellow jumper wire here you can choose whatever color you want and I'm
20:30
going to place it onto the positive
20:38
side and I will
20:44
take all I have is another blue one another blue jumper wire and I will
20:50
place this one on the negative rail I'll just keep it consistent with this other
20:56
one here so I have the blue one on the negative and the yellow one on the positive for
21:04
this power rail here so now
21:09
the negative rail for this power rail here
21:14
on this breadboard on the left side is completely connected and the positive
21:20
power rail here is completely connected all the way throughout and I will show
21:27
you a closeup here that's all we did we just made the connections there let me move these out
21:34
of the way so you can see better so now these NE this negative and
21:41
positive power rail Supply here is completely connected throughout and I will all I did was
21:48
place the red on the positive side and the black jumper wire on the negative side like so just like that
21:58
so now the Arduino is set up for power we have the 9vt
22:09
power supply hooked up ready to go on this power rail we have the power set up
22:16
for the Arduino the 9vt power that we'll use when we plug into the Arduino here
22:21
to power the Arduino and we're we've also got our 5vt supply from the Arduino
22:29
distributed to the positive and negative power rails on this far left side uh
22:36
breadboard here and we're going to use that 5vt Supply coming from the Arduino
22:43
for the uh Pier sensor that we will prepare next for step
22:50
four and again if you're using an 830 point breadboard and your 9volt battery
22:57
like this all you're going to do is you're going to do the same with your jumper wires
23:05
the red on the 5vt the black on the ground and instead of on this board
23:11
you're just going to connect it to let's say the positive and negative
23:18
Supply on the breadboard just like this so that's all
23:24
you would need to do for now
23:31
but since I'm using the ultimate DIY 3220 Point breadboard
23:40
mine is connected to it just like
23:49
that so now we're at step four connecting the pier
23:56
sensor so the here sensor this is an HC
24:04
sr501 and I explain it on the
24:09
website uh how the connections are on this and how it
24:15
works what we'll do is we'll remove the Fresno lens off of the piure
24:21
sensor so we can clearly see the pin labeled the pin labels here we can
24:30
see the VCC here that's our positive power we have an out pin in the middle
24:37
here and we have the ground pin on the right side here so if I flip it over this
24:45
way we can see the pins exposed there and what I'm going to do is I'm
24:53
going to take a red jumper wire this is a
24:59
female or a male to female jumper wire you can see the female end here and the
25:05
male end with the pin right here I'm going to take the female
25:10
end and I'm going to place it on the VCC
25:19
pin like so next I'm going to take a yellow male
25:25
to female jumper and I'm going to take the female end and
25:31
install it or insert it onto the out
25:38
pin and then I'm going to take the black jumper wire here it's
25:46
also a male to female I'm going to take the female end and I'm going to place it onto the
25:55
ground pin like so
26:03
as I mentioned previously I put up a description on these uh HC sr501 Pier
26:11
Sensors how they work uh what the knobs here are for and what the jumper wire
26:17
here is for and uh other explanations on this type of Pier sensor um I'll briefly
26:26
just discuss it here uh this this is a pier sensor Pier stands for Passive
26:31
infrared sensor like we said there's the
26:36
VCC or positive Power Pin we have the out pin which is uh the uh signal pin
26:45
that will send a signal to the Arduino in this case for our project on when
26:51
motion is detected and of course we have our ground pin here the Power Pin or VCC
26:59
pin has a wide range of input voltages it's uh anywhere between I think it's 4
27:06
volts and 12 volts uh it's recommended that we use 5 volts on it so that's
27:12
where our 5vt source comes from is from the Arduino that we just hooked up to our um
27:21
breadboard here so we'll make our connection for 5 Vols used the Arduino
27:29
to the pier sensor or the pier sensor to the Arduino the output
27:35
pin here the middle pin uh it's a 3.3 TTL logic so it can be
27:43
used with any microcontroller platform such as the Arduino like we're using here uh the
27:50
raspberry uh pck microcontroller arm and the
27:56
851 uh we'll be using like I said the Arduino Uno for this
28:01
project we also have the ground pin and of course that allows us for
28:08
connecting to the ground of the circuit and this is something we must
28:15
do if we turn it over this little yellow plastic piece here is actually a jumper
28:22
wire I don't know if you can see but there's a little piece of metal here that's
28:27
connected AC across these two terminals there so there's a connection made from a pin here to jump across to a pin
28:36
here if I remove it we can see the pins underneath so this just makes a jump
28:44
between those two pins and I currently have it in the L
28:49
position you can see the [Music] L
28:55
right right there there's an and there's also an H position right there that's if
29:03
the center pin and this pin right there were connected or the jumper was on
29:09
those two pins but like I said I have it in the L position the L position uh when the
29:17
jumper wire is in the L position it locks the uh High signal to
29:23
approximately 2 minutes this is the position that we're going to set for this project uh what this means is that
29:31
when motion is detected it sets or it's set in a single trigger
29:36
mode meaning that when something crosses the path of the sensor here when this
29:44
Fresno lens is on when something crosses the path of
29:49
the sensor it triggers it and it locks
29:57
it to the on or high output position for approximately 2 minutes so any motion doesn't reset the
30:05
the timer again it just means that when it's in the L position when the jumper
30:10
is in the L position uh and the pier sensor is working when something crosses
30:16
the path the timer is set to 2 minutes and no matter if something's Crossing
30:21
that path that 2 minutes continues to count down uh so any motion doesn't
30:27
reset that that time now if we were to set this jumper into the H
30:33
position like so if I were to move the PIN
30:38
[Music] to these two jumper
30:45
wires now it's in the H position you can see
30:53
here the H can barely see it I think right there
31:00
when it's in the H position uh this puts the sensor into
31:07
repeat trigger mode meaning that when something crosses its path it triggers the two-minute
31:15
countdown or it begins again so if something crosses its path again within
31:20
the 2minute uh Countdown the timer the timer will restart the countdown over
31:26
again for 2 minutes so any motion resets the two-minute
31:32
timer so in this case if something crosses the the path of the sensor the
31:37
two-minute timer will start and then if something crosses it again that two-minute timer will restart
31:45
again so for this project we're going to keep it in the L
31:51
position or single single trigger mode meaning we for any mode motion we don't
31:58
want the timer to reset we just want the motion the timer to go and to continue
32:04
to count down for the full two minutes no matter any any other motion comes
32:10
across it so now that we have our Pier sensor and the jumper
32:16
wires connected to the pier sensor now we need to connect the pier
32:22
sensor to our breadboard so all we're going to do is we're going to take our red jumper wire which is connected to
32:30
the VCC pin or the positive Power Pin of the pier sensor we need
32:36
to place the other end of that jumper wire to the positive
32:44
Supply the 5vt positive Supply coming from our Arduino
32:49
Uno we need to ground that Supply so we're going to take our black jumper
32:56
wire that we connect Ed to the ground pin of the pier sensor I'm going to connect it to the
33:03
negative of this 5V Supply here and then I need to take the yellow
33:10
jumper wire which is connected to the out pin of the pier sensor and we're
33:16
going to connect it in this case to the 12 or pin 12 of the
33:25
Arduino again if you're not using the ultimate DIY 3220 point breadboard and
33:33
you're using a generic 830 point breadboard the next thing that you'll be
33:39
doing in this process is
33:45
to like we did you had your Arduino set up for power on one end of
33:56
your supply or one end of your breadboard I
34:02
mean so yours would look like
34:08
this and you had your 9volt battery p uh 9volt battery connected to this which
34:17
later will be connecting to uh the Arduino itself to power the
34:23
Arduino but we're not doing that right now and the next thing
34:29
and connecting the pier sensor you would do pretty much the same as we did with the larger 3220 Point board you take
34:36
your red jumper wire place it into the positive Supply take your negative
34:43
jumper wire place it into the negative Supply and then take the yellow jumper
34:49
wire that's coming from the output pin of the pier sensor and just place it
34:54
into pin 12 of the Arduino so that's all that you would need to do there
35:01
and again you'd have your 9vt battery power with the with the wires connected
35:07
to the uh DC adapter which later like I
35:13
said we'll plug into the Arduino to power it when we need to do that but
35:19
we're not doing that yet okay for the next step of the albot
35:24
project for part one and motion sensing we want to go over to the mbots website
35:31
for albot part one motion sensing and we want to go down to the programming the Arduino to sense motion section I'll
35:38
leave the link in the description below and all we're going to do is copy this right here it's going to make a check
35:44
mark and we've copied it okay now I'm in the Arduino IDE I have copied the code
35:50
from the mbots website I've have my file here named albot part one I'm going to
35:57
now pay paste that code I copied and I'm going to save it okay you can see when I
36:03
ran the code I got some errors it says that there's a stray character or
36:10
something and these lines are highlighted here these are the only three lines that are highlighted after
36:16
copying the code from the site and pasting it here the way to fix this is
36:21
to just backspace these
36:30
and if I verify it
36:44
again alternatively to get the code for the albot project part one you can go to
36:50
our GitHub repository called albot remote and get the code there all you
36:56
need do is just press the copy raw file
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and then once you copied that file from our GitHub account you can come into your Arduino Arduino IDE and paste the
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code into your file and you can save it
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there okay for the next part of this part one of the albot project we're
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going to we're going to be programming the Arduino to sense motion this is
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going to be the first part of or the first steps of coding the albot uh to
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perform uh the actions that we want the albot to do so as I said for part one we
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are only focusing on the motion sensing part so we can see here starting at the
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top part of the code we are importing the
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software uh serial Library so we need to import the software serial library in
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order to use the serial communication on other
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digital pins of the Arduino board moving down we see that we have a
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couple of variables here we have uh the peer variable which is an INT and we
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have a motion status variable which is also an INT we've initialized the uh the
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peer variable to be the value of 12 and we've initialized the motion status
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variable to be uh set to low so the perer variable will be associated with
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the signal pin or the output pin from the pier sensor to pin 12 of the Arduino
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and the motion status variable is the Cur current motion status or signal pin
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reading so the value of zero is a low reading and the value of one is a high
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reading the value is initially set to low meaning initially we don't want this
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variable showing the peer sensor as reading motion right when the code is
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compiled this this next variable that we have here is the peer State variable
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it's initialized to be low the peer state variable is the state of the peer
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sensor signal pin it's either high or low and as I said we initially set it to
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low because we've set our motion status variable to low initially so we don't
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want the peer State telling us that motion is detected when the motion status is initially saying that there's
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no motion detected so we go ahead and initialize that to low and if we look
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inside uh the setup here we can see that we have a pin mode here for our Pier
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variable that's the pin 12 uh for the Arduino so the peer
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variable was designated as pin 12 on the Arduino it's set as an output pin
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because the Arduino will will receive input at Pin 12 from the pier sensor so
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this input to the Arduino from the pier sensor is the 3.3 signal or the 3.3 volt
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signal the peer sensor outputs from its output pin when motion is detected here
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we have serial. begin uh 9600 and what this is is that we want to
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be able to use the serial monitor for debugging purposes here we've set it at
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a typical B rate value of 9600 and here we've set a delay of 2,000
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or 2,000 milliseconds which is equival equivalent to 2 seconds so we set it at
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2 seconds or 2,000 milliseconds because we just want to allow the peer sensor
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and later other modules that we'll be using for the albot project to settle
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down uh once things are powered on so that everything's ready to go so moving
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down in our code here we can see our our Loop so this is where the code will
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enter the loop and the first thing that occurs within the loop is the the motion
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status variable uh where we have a digital read
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and it's reading the peer signal from uh the pier or output pin of the
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pier sensor so what's happening is that uh we want to get the motion status from
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pin 12 of the Arduino and so we just want to know whether that uh signal is
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high or low so as we said that when motion is detected from the pier
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sensor uh a 3.3 volt signal will occur
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uh from the sensor uh from the sensor's output pin to pin 12 of the Arduino and the Arduino
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will pick up on that uh voltage signal uh telling us that there is motion
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detected when it's high or there's no motion detected when that signal is low
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or at zero volts here we have uh an if else
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statement here we're saying that if the motion status is high so
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if this motion status is high or if motion is detected we want to
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check whether or not if the peer state is
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low and again we initially uh set the peer State variable able to be low so
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right off the bat when motion is detected it's going to go into this if
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statement because that means the motion status is high and if the pier state is
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low which it initially will be because we set it too low initially then we want
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to print out to the serial monitor that motion has been
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detected and then after that we want to set the pier state to high because we
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want to mirror uh the high signal that's happening from the motion
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status uh here now if there is no motion so if the motion status is low then it's
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going to skip this if statement and go to the else else
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statement so if there is no motion and if the pier state is high meaning that
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it read uh the there was motion before but now there's no motion we want to go
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inside here and print out no motion detected and then set the pier state to
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low to reflect the low signal that the motion status would be
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currently reading okay once you've copied the code from the website or either our GitHub
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account the links will be in the description below uh all you need to do is take your
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USB cable that's plugged into your computer and plug the other end to your
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Arduino and then compile and upload that code to the
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Arduino and then we'll run the code and then test it by waving our hand in front
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of the pier sensor and if everything's working correctly you should be getting
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some output readings on the serial monitor showing that there's motion
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detected or no mo motion detected uh printed out to the serial monitor once we've plugged in our
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Arduino to the computer we want to compile and upload the file by
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pressing uh this upload file arrow button at the top left corner of the tool bar once that is done we want to
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press over here to the far right where it says serial
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monitor where we should see print out for no motion detected
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motion detected and I'm waving my hand in front of the pier
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sensor so we can see when there's motion detected and when there's no motion
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detected okay at this point in part one of the albot
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project motion sensing we've connected our 9vt battery
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power supply to our breadboard we've made a connection to
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the DC power adapter in order to connect to our Arduino uh the 9vt power supply
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to the Arduino later on in the project we've connected our Pier sensor to the
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Arduino and we've connected the Arduino uh its 5volt power supply and ground to
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a power rail on to to the breadboard we've also copied and uh the code from
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the mbots website again that uh information and Link is down in the
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description below if you've if you ran into any problems in uh the code itself
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uh when copying the code directly from the website there's a great explanation
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and also uh video clips there showing how to uh fix that
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problem uh alternatively you could copy the code from our uh GitHub uh account
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at the repository for the albot project uh that link is down in the description
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below and again visit our website at mbots dcom for this albot project uh and
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others in order to find out uh all the information uh how to and all the steps
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that you need to know to be able to complete this uh part of the project at mbots dcom again the link is down in
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the description below this has been step one for the albot project motion
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sensing next for part two of the albot project we will be adding sound to our
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albot prototype we will be using an MP3 player to store an MP3 file that will
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contain owl sounds to it and then we will use the Arduino Uno
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and and uh add to our code later uh in order to have that sound play through a
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couple of speakers that will add to the Arduino and to our prototype here so
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that when motion is detected by the peer sensor those owl sounds will be made so
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stay tuned for that part two of the albot project this has been part one
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motion sensing for how to build and albot thank you for joining me and I'll
48:30
see you on part two
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