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Does Blight Over Winter In Your Garden Soil? How To Control Blight In Your Garden | Gardening
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Oct 28, 2022
Tomato blight can destroy a crop if not managed properly. This gardening in Canada video looks at tomato blight and how to control it in your garden. Another option is blight resistant tomatoes: Mountain Magic: https://bit.ly/3LN1daq Damsel: https://bit.ly/3y2vufJ Galahad: https://bit.ly/3E51DHz Early Girl: https://bit.ly/3CfgJZu Resources: Late blight https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/late-blight Early blight https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/early-blight-tomato-and-potato Leaf spot http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/IPM/english/tomatoes/diseases-and-disorders/septoria-leaf-spot.html 🎥 2 N D. C H A N N E L https://youtube.com/channel/UCjui7H4Eczaoj3Z92AC-LBQ 👩🔬 G R A B A P L A N N E R Paperback Houseplant Planner: https://geni.us/NFTrl2 Paperback Garden Planner:
View Video Transcript
0:00
Let's take a look at why this was so bad this year, blight for tomatoes and how we can fix
0:06
it so it doesn't come on full attack next year. Hello plant people, how are you guys doing today
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If you're new around here, my name is Ashley and I like to take science and apply to all things plants
0:15
In today's video, we're talking about blight and specifically the blight that is found
0:19
on my tomatoes because it is a lot. And the reason for this is because this year in my zone, it was particularly cold and moist
0:28
for a vast majority of the first portion in the growing season
0:32
This is the perfect conditions for blight to take over. We don't tend to see it as much or as intensely
0:39
in the hotter, drier years. We don't see it as intensely when it's hot and moist
0:45
but the combination of cold growing season with lots of moisture and rain, and voila, we have blight
0:52
So let's talk about what's going on, how we can prevent it, how I ended up with such a severe infection and kind of everything else in between. But first
1:01
be sure to give this video a thumbs up. Hit that subscribe button. I'm almost at 50,000 subscribers
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and I want to do a giveaway when I do hit 50. So in order to be a part of that giveaway
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you do have to hit subscribe. There's like 60 some-ish percent of you that just lurk
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Stop lurking. Start subscribing. So let's get into the video. So there are three different
1:23
types of blight. There's early blight, late blight, and then leaf spot blight. Early blight is from
1:28
early in the season and the best way to prevent against this is actually to physically look at
1:33
your seedlings, ensure that it's not on the stems, there's no fissures or lesions on the stems
1:38
then as well as the leaves. If you're noticing any form of lesions in the early blight seedlings
1:44
you need to discard them because early blight will kill not only that seedling, but potentially
1:48
all the other seeds or seedlings within your garden that year. It's not very preventable
1:55
It's one of those kind of death sentence type blights that you want to get rid of ASAP
2:00
The other one is leaf spot blight and you usually just see these on the lower leaves of our tomatoes Now keep in mind that the leaves can simply be removed and typically the rest of the plant is okay Very rarely will it
2:12
kill a plant or take out an entire crop and it's actually mechanical removal that's going to be
2:17
your best friend in this case. What I have here behind me is late blight and this is kind of what
2:23
a majority of potato and tomato growers and anyone in the nightshade family will have happen. Now
2:30
this some people do believe over winters in the soil and while there is blight just naturally
2:36
occurring in our soil it's not specific to the soil conditions or how you chose to treat your
2:42
soil that causes late blight infections late blight is completely spread on wind bugs and tools
2:50
hands from crop to crop so as it moves on the wind it will eventually affect your plants it's
2:59
very similar to downy mildew which we see on things like basal plants kind of that black
3:04
blotching some years we see it some years we don't because it travels on the wind based on
3:09
the conditions of the world around us so the key here is that blight late blight needs to survive
3:17
on living tissue this means so long as the tissue is dead it cannot reinfect a plant so if we have
3:27
a plant that's currently infected with blight and we catch it earlier in the season we can simply
3:32
remove the infected living portion and discard it we don't want to compost it and we don't want to
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just leave it simply on the ground or anywhere near your property because what will happen
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is that it will just move back into the plant and reinfect so long as that leaf is green and
3:50
living until it's crusted up and died is still technically able to spread so you actually want
3:56
You want to get rid of it entirely, put it under the soil, put it under a tarp if you're determined to compost this thing
4:02
But regardless, you need to have it covered where it cannot spread any further
4:05
However we do live in a communal situation in our world so it likely that when your neighbors have blight and that how you ending up with it But again it not their fault because it doesn overwinter in the soil
4:18
The only time it will overwinter in your soil is if you have blight that's infecting your potatoes
4:24
and you plant potatoes and tomatoes closely together in the same area. If your potato is
4:31
able to go underground, survive and regrow, this includes your compost you guys, if you have a
4:36
compost and they survive the winter in your compost and germinate in your compost, then you
4:41
are spreading blight every year because it's going to overwinter on that tuber itself. So the tuber
4:48
needs to be complete mush in the spring or completely frozen. So the good news here is that
4:54
all of this is still compostable. I can compost it in a hot compost. I just don't want it to
5:00
overwinter or leave. This means that these plants unfortunately are not great candidates to
5:06
actually take clippings from and overwinter indoors. So these guys are all out. I mean
5:11
I could take them from other places in the patch that aren't infected, but there's definitely a
5:17
risk that I'm just going to transfer that blight to the next year or potentially take out my indoor
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crops that I am growing. So my tomatoes this year will be restarted from seed, but all of this will
5:26
go into the compost itself, or I can leave it in place, allow it to do some snow capture, but we'll
5:33
that in a separate video on two ways that you can actually close down your garden itself and which
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way you should choose depending on your situation so one recommendation that i did see a lot in the
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interwebs was fungicides the way that i do these videos is i look at research papers but then i also
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look at what the common narrative is in the community of gurners and one thing is fungicide
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it tanked up over and over again whether it's a biofungicide or a copper fungicide organic or
6:00
synthetic and the kind of common misconception there is that you will be
6:06
able to somehow fix a plant that is this bad or bad in any anyway and be able to
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reverse that damage or turn around that infection and the reality is is that fungicides 99 of the time even in conventional money systems
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are specifically being used as prevention. So they're applied before that fungus issue will arrive
6:35
So I've talked about growing degree day units before in other videos
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so I'm not gonna get into that too much here. So what we can do is we can take blight
6:45
late blight in this case and figure out how many growing degree day units or gdus are needed for
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blight to set in in your garden. We can then determine through a gdu map which are very
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readily accessible. You can just do a quick search saskatoon gdus this year it'll give you a number
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and this will give you an idea of when that blight is going to kick up or turn on in your area and
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this will give you about a week before where you can actually apply that fungicide and then
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continue to apply that fungicide through the entire year to ensure that this does not happen
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Now, I will say that if you aren't into the GDUs, you aren't into the math, you aren't a super plant
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nerd, which is completely fine. I understand this is meant to be a hobby and relaxing. You could just
7:30
technically start applying a fungicide once every two weeks or once a month, whatever the recommendation
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is, starting that first week in May or June when you actually transplant these guys outdoors. Now
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Overall, I got tomatoes off these. It did harm my yield and I don't really get very worked up about blight in general
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It's just one of those things that come with gardening. So I hope this helped you guys out
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You have to let me know in the comment down below if you knew what this is, if you didn't know what it was, or if you were beside yourself because it kept coming back every year
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And I'm here to tell you it's not your fault at all, unless if you have tomato tubers living underground
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But otherwise, it's not your fault. It's Mother Nature's fault and it's completely natural and something that you will just simply
8:11
not be able to avoid, regardless of pruning and aeration and all that sort of stuff. You're going
8:16
to end up with blight, and light blight, in my opinion, isn't that bad. It just looks ugly. It's
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kind of the worst thing that happens there. I'm thinking you guys are watching and I will talk to
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you next time. Bye
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