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all right what's up everybody it's Matt
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here again from Filter grade and today
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I'm going to be going over how to shoot
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16 mm film with the K3 or the kror 3 I
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have a video about this from a couple
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years ago now but I rewatched it and I
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wasn't really um too keen on it I don't
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think I had actually shot that much
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footage before I had made that video it
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was more of like hey check out this test
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roll type of thing but now now that I've
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been shooting for a couple years I want
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to show you how to do it first off
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because I think a lot of people are
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super intimidated by it and they think
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it's like a super expensive um the just
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really scary and like almost like
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impossible but just watch this if you're
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interested in learning about film or if
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you've never shot film before or really
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yeah if you're just trying to get
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started and see what it's all about cuz
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for me that was where I was at when I
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first started and yeah I watched a
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couple of videos and I was like oh wow I
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could do this too so this is me telling
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you you can easily Do It um just follow
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these steps and you'll figure out how to
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started the first thing that you're
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going to need to do is actually you know
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get your hands on a camera whether
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you're renting or buying um that is up
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to you you can find them on eBay you can
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find people that sell on Instagram you
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can probably find them on some random
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Niche Facebook Niche marketplaces you
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can find them all over the place I got
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the kenor 3 because it seemed the most
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similar to the Super Eight cameras that
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I was shooting before that were more
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like um you know handheld like trigger
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cameras like this so that's what I was
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looking for I know a lot of people go
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for BX cameras um and there's tons of
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others just look on eBay I can link them
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Link in the description for um Max K3
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camera he's this guy in Russia that
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restores and refurbishes and builds
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these cameras to be kind of like
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modernized and all different types of
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variations and stuff he's a super great
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guy that's where I got this from and
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it's been good for me for the past four
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or five years so you can find them from
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him I think he also has a page on eBay
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or there's other people that you can buy
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from on eBay which I'll kind of like
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flash through so you can see what that
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looks like there's some that are super
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expensive there's some that are a little
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bit more affordable um and then some of
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them will come with a lens others you'll
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have to buy the lens separately For Me
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Mine originally came with a like the
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standard lens that this had on was like
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a 17 to 70 mm lens or something um so
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you can really use it for like
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everything I really enjoyed that and
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then I started shooting a little bit of
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more music videos and things like that
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with it so I needed something that was a
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little bit wider so now I have this um
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I think it's like a 14 mm
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lens it's a bomo fisheye lens so maybe 8
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mm I don't even know but it goes all the
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way down to 3.5 and it does the job
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really well so the first yeah the first
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step is just going to be finding
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yourself a camera I highly recommend the
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Kor 3 it is really great and it's also
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good for beginners that don't really get
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film all that too well so the next step
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once you actually have the camera itself
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is to find some film so today I have
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Kodak 500t this is a Tungsten speed or a
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Tungsten film which means it's balanced
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to tungsten light not daylight there's
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all different types of film from 250d to
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100d 500t I think they might make 500d I
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don't know but there's a few different
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variations I'll link them all in the
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description you can also kind of just
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search for like 16 mm film at B&H or
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online on Amazon or anywhere else you
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might be looking for it and it'll kind
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of show you the different types the
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number is just like the iso so 250d
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would be 250 daylight Balan film um 500t
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is 500 ISO tungsten balance they also
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have black and white film and I'm sure
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they if you look hard enough they
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probably have some like special effects
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Red film or or things like that um but
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yeah my camera right now has 250d in it
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and I also have a pack of 500t which I
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don't know that I'll be shooting cuz
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we're outside right now but yeah that's
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the next step is finding actually like
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what you're going to be
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shooting all right so the next step is
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actually going to be loading your camera
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so this is going to be a little bit
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different depending on what camera
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you're actually using for the K3 it's
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relatively simple I've only loaded a few
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other 16 mm cameras they all kind of
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have a similar mechanism um and system
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so it's not too too difficult it just
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takes some practice and you're going to
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want to practice maybe using old film uh
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just to make sure you know how to you
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know wind it all correctly and and get
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it on the spools this was something I
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definitely struggled with at first I
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even remember there was a couple times
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when I was on set using the camera that
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I actually reached out to Max on
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Instagram because I couldn't get it to
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perfect I remember one time it was like
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uh midnight I was in Boston and it was
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midnight here I'm not even sure what
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what time it was for him but he
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immediately responded to my question on
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Instagram and then even called me back
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like right away so that was really nice
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he helped me load the camera perfectly
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and get it all set up and whatnot even
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with the language barrier so that was
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super convenient and if you have any
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questions or need to figure out exactly
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how to load the K3 check out our other
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video on that and that'll go more in
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depth on how to actually load the camera
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just like any other camera you're going
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to want to get to know it before you
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actually start using it so let's go
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ahead and just look at some of the
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different knobs and dials that you're
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going to need to know before you
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actually start shooting with it the
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first obviously on the lens you're going
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to see your aperture and you're going to
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see your focus ring um that's pretty
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standard next up you're going to see the
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frames per second dial on here you can
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from you know stop motion like one frame
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to 60 frames per second and I haven't
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really done too many experiments using
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you know 60 frames slow motion footage
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with this camera but I have shot in 24
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frames per second 18 and even 12 if I
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want to get sped up footage or or
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something similar to that nature so
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that's always a fun way to experiment
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normally I'm just setting it to
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24 and the next is going to be the
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actual crank knob this this is what's
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going to kind of wind up your camera to
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shoot there's no battery in this camera
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so the more you wind the more footage
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you're actually able to shoot if you
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only wind one or two turns you're only
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going to get a little bit something else
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to consider when shooting with this
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camera is the exposure settings um
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there's no light meter built in so
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you're going to kind of have to think
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about your exposure and get to know it a
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little bit more it's not as easy as just
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shooting with a digital camera camera
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seeing what looks nice seeing what
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doesn't look nice so for me I use a
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light meter app it's free I found it on
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the App Store it wasn't too much
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research done you can go ahead and buy
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you know an expensive light meter if you
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want to that's fine for me I just always
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have my phone in my pocket so I figured
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I would use this and it's really easy to
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use I just open up the app once it's
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ready to go um I set the shutter speed
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to 160th of a second that's what my
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camera is automatically set to if the
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frames per second is at 24 frames per
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second right now I have 500 speed film
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in so I'm going to set the iso to 500
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and then point it at my desired frame
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and whatever it tells me to set the
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aperture to that's what will be an even
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light setting obviously you have some
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leeway on either side if you want it to
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be a bit darker you can expose for that
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if you want to be a little bit lighter
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you can also expose for that so just
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keep that in mind mind when you're
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shooting okay so you just finished your
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roll now the last step is just going to
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be to get it processed which at first I
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had no idea how where like I had no idea
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about any of that and didn't really
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understand it so I remember when I was
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younger I looked on Reddit like how do I
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get my film developed or where do I get
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my film developed and things like that
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um when I lived in Boston it was a
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little bit trickier cuz there weren't
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really any labs in the city I used to
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ship my film out to cine lab which is in
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a different part of Massachusetts or to
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Color Lab which is in Maryland highly
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recommend Color Lab they were really
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good and they were always pretty quick
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about the turnaround times which was
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something I used to get really annoyed
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about um when having to ship it in the
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mail but that's a story for another day
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so for me now I live in New York so I go
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to negative land um they process super
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great 16 mm film probably like 35 mm
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Motion Picture film they they uh they
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develop and process a lot of Motion
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Picture film they're really good at it
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and it's actually really nice being able
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to go in person and talk to them a
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little bit about you know what you might
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want with your footage or with your film
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and whatnot so it's really cool to go in
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like see it in person um so if you're in
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New York I highly recommend going to
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negative land if you're not in New York
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I still recommend shipping your film to
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negative land cuz they have really good
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pricing and they get the job done really
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well um so yeah so the main thing is
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that once you get your film out of the
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camera you're going to want to keep it
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in the original canister that you had
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the film come in the reason being is
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because these are light light proof
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containers um that are sealed at all the
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edges and whatnot so don't risk exposing
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your film by storing it and like
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some paper wrapped some like you know
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just do it properly store it in one of
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the boxes that you got your film in and
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it'll just make your life a whole lot
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easier um but yeah really besides the
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developing and scanning um there's not
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too much else to it I think something to
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think about a little bit down the road
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maybe once you have your roles ready to
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develop are what format you're going to
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want them in um and how you're going to
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want them put on your computer I guess I
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know a lot of labs you can either ship a
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hard drive or bring the hard drive to
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them or you can upload that you can have
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the lab upload them to Google Drive or
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Dropbox or have them we transfer it
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sometimes that costs money because some
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of the file sizes can be a bit larger
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depending on how you're scanning your
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film um normally for personal projects I
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will scan in either 2K or 4K and for
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most of my like work projects those ones
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I'll scan in 4k just to have higher
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quality and most of the time I'm
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shooting digitally in 4k so it kind of
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easier um and then there's a few other
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things to think about like what format
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you want them I usually go for Apple Pro
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res format if you have a Windows
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computer you might want something
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different some Labs don't really even
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give you that option they just send it
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off um and then something else to think
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about is if you want the actual film
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gate um On the Border or if you don't
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want that I know a lot of people don't
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really like it other people think it's
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ever I'll let you make that decision but
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that's another thing to think about and
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yeah besides that the developing and
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scanning portion isn't all that much
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effort I guess it just costs money and
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it takes a little bit of time but on
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your end you should be fine so if you
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have any questions make sure you talk to
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the people at your lab they should be
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happy to help but yeah other than that I
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hope you enjoyed this video if you have
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any questions about shooting film
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developing editing if you have any
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questions feel free to leave them in the
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comment or reach out to me on Instagram
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um I'm always more than happy to help
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but yeah I hope you guys enjoy your day
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hope you enjoyed the video and peace out
